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St. Vitus' Dance

5.10d, Sport,  Avg: 3.5 from 40 votes
FA: FA: Kimmo Nissinen, Zach Hausken 1990
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Icicle Creek > Alphabet Rock
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Who would expect to find a wild overhanging sport route in this area?

Scramble to the top of a block to clip the first bolt under the overhang. From here, big juggy moves take you up and left (some heel hooking chops might come in handy here). You find yourself under a massive hueco into which you can crawl for a rest before popping back out onto the overhanging wall, and up over the lip.

Location

Left of Z-Crack, around the corner and a bit uphill.

Protection

3 bolts provide good protection. An alternate start could be protected with some trad gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

getting ready to whip! highly recommend slinging the hueco or else you risk hitting the ledge with rope stretch
[Hide Photo] getting ready to whip! highly recommend slinging the hueco or else you risk hitting the ledge with rope stretch
Malcolm powering through the mantle on St. Vitus' Dance.
[Hide Photo] Malcolm powering through the mantle on St. Vitus' Dance.
Great no hands rest in the hueco
[Hide Photo] Great no hands rest in the hueco
Unique juggy climbing on St. Vitus' Dance
[Hide Photo] Unique juggy climbing on St. Vitus' Dance
John leading St. Vitus' Dance
[Hide Photo] John leading St. Vitus' Dance
St Vitus' Dance
[Hide Photo] St Vitus' Dance
This little guy was curled up right at the base of the route.  Talk about getting your heart pumping before a climb!
[Hide Photo] This little guy was curled up right at the base of the route. Talk about getting your heart pumping before a climb!
Doug on the beginning of St Vitus' Dance
[Hide Photo] Doug on the beginning of St Vitus' Dance

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Will McConaughy
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] I had way too much fun on this route. I would suggest slinging the two necks in the rest hueco for protection. Committing moves, but not too hard once you go for it. Sep 1, 2017