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Edge of Time

5.10b, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: John Steiger, Brent Manning, Sept. 2008
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Storm Mtn Picni… > Storm Mtn Island
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Description

Edge of Time is an alternative start to get to the beautiful hand and finger cracks above the Big in Japan anchors. The cracks were originally climbed as the latter half of Thin Slice in Time. However, IMO this is a more logical and better way to get to the cracks than doing Thin Slice (no offense to Thin Slice's FA party).

Begin by scrambling up the low-angle shale ramp in the yawning chimney right of Big in Japan. After about 20 feet, climb obvious holds up the overhanging wall of the chimney then step around the corner and up to a point right of Big in Japan's anchors. Follow incipient cracks leading right and up, close to the edge of the chimney, and continue to the finishing cracks.

Location

Right of Big in Japan.

Protection

Standard trad rack. Belay on top from gear. Walk off or rap from anchors atop of Encore. Turning the corner onto the Big in Japan face may warrant a bolt, although the gear seemed okay to me. I'll place a bolt if some consensus forms that it is needed.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Spencer Weiler
Grand Junction
[Hide Comment] Would recommend thin slice over this variation. Sorry. Apr 24, 2012
John Steiger
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] No sweat Spence, to each his own. How did you find the protection getting out of the chimney and onto the face? I'm thinking about putting a bolt in to protect that section. Apr 27, 2012
[Hide Comment] John, thanks for putting up so many great "new" routes. I vote for adding 1-2 bolts at the start of this one; two would allow one to gain the overhanging wall a bit sooner. Jul 7, 2024