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Routes in Slabosaurus

Donna's Dyno T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hallett's View T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Westward Expansion S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Westward Ho S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Sport, 85 ft
FA: Tom Kohlmann and Nancy Hall
Page Views: 889 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tom Woods on Oct 4, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Climb to the first bolt about 20' off the ground. Between the first and second bolts there is an old piton with a ring. Opportunities for the use of trad protection on this route are sparse until an overhang above the last (fourth) bolt is reached. There are only four bolts on this route, and they may appear a bit run-out. There are two cruxes: between the first and second bolts, and after the fourth bolt climbing over the overhang towards the anchors. Large and medium size cams may be used to protect moves over the overhang, which should be climbed to its right-hand side owing to the presence of at least one relatively large chockstone on the left-hand side of the overhang. This chockstone appears loose and may be quite dangerous until it has been crowbarred out and trundled to the bottom. When top-roping, avoid having the rope drag over the chockstone and possibly dislodging it. Also, BEWARE LOOSE ROCK on this route at other locations, as this route has seen little traffic to date. The climb can be exited below the overhang by moving right towards the anchor for Westward Expansion. There is a nice view of Hallett's Peak to the west from the top of this route.

Location

This route is located on the right-hand side of the long slab on the left side of the Slabosaurus area.

Protection

4 bolts, 1 old piton, and 2 twist anchors.

Photos

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I enjoyed this route quite a bit. The holds seem pretty solid (at least compared to Donna's Dyno!) but the pin looks sketchy to me. I yanked on it quite a bit and it did not move but the way is is orientated does not inspire much confidence. Fortunately, the climbing to the next bolt is pretty solid. The roof can be protected with a #0.75 Camalot. Jul 10, 2009