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Routes in The Long Walk Wall
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Apocalyptic Lightning Storm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Choking Orangey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Chop 'em Down T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Last Caress, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Last Daze Of Pompeii T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Nate's Solo T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Patina Palace T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rapture Of The Honeybees T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ring Of Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sample Collector T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Western Web T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Nate Arganbright, Jason Seaver, 5/26/07 |
| Page Views: | 504 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | jason seaver on Oct 4, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2022 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
Right of The Last Daze Of Pompeii, find an obvious, right-facing dihedral that ends at a roof 25' up. Gain this dihedral, negotiating the fallen dead tree however you like, and surmount the roof at a splitter little finger crack. At the horizontal crack (10' above the roof), move left to the right-leaning crack system. Follow this system for 25 to where you could step right on a small ledge to join the Apocalyptic Lightning Storm. This is where the ground-up FA was forced to exit. But the originally envisioned, and eventually completed, line goes straight up. At this point, eschew the tempting ledge out right, and head straight up to a very shallow, right-facing flake which, after a couple cruxy moves, leads to a horizontal crack with good gear. Move 6' left on this horizontal to another vertical crack that peters out and leaves you with a couple sets of perplexing moves to get to the anchor.
On the proud ground-up effort, Nate bailed right into Apocalyptic Lightning Storm. Only after toprope rehearsal did I successfully lead the originally envisioned line on 8-9-08. So, this line could certainly be considered a headpoint.
On the proud ground-up effort, Nate bailed right into Apocalyptic Lightning Storm. Only after toprope rehearsal did I successfully lead the originally envisioned line on 8-9-08. So, this line could certainly be considered a headpoint.
Location
To the right of The Last Daze Of Pompeii is a right-facing corner capped by a small roof 25 off the ground. The start is somewhat guarded by a fallen dead tree.
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