Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Jason Seaver, Nate Arganbright, Bronson MacDonald, 5/19/07
Page Views: 1,508 total · 8/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Oct 4, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a superb, thin crack pitch and the testpiece of the crag. With full knowledge of the potential bias of first ascentionists, I suggest this is one of the best single pitches of thin crack-work on Lumpy Ridge.

At the base of the left side of the crag, there are two rectangular recesses. Just right of these features find a shallow, left-facing corner. Follow this corner, and cracks angling left, up to the orange overlap. Move right under the overlap then launch up into the right-angling, thin crack above. At the first horizontal crack, move left to a short crack, take it to another horizontal, move left again and make one more set of moves to the two-bolt lower-off anchor.

After several falls on ground-up efforts, we resorted to a toprope session. Nate and I both succeeded on redpoint attempts on the next visit.

Location Suggest change

Start down and right of the rectangular recesses at the bottom of the left side of the cliff, at a shallow left-facing dihedral.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, with plenty of small stoppers, and cams up to hand-sized.
Two-bolt lower off anchor.