Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jason Seaver, Nate Arganbright, Bronson MacDonald, 5/19/07
Page Views: 770 total · 6/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Oct 4, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is a superb, thin crack pitch and the testpiece of the crag. With full knowledge of the potential bias of first ascentionists, I suggest this is one of the best single pitches of thin crack-work on Lumpy Ridge.

At the base of the left side of the crag, there are two rectangular recesses. Just right of these features find a shallow, left-facing corner. Follow this corner, and cracks angling left, up to the orange overlap. Move right under the overlap then launch up into the right-angling, thin crack above. At the first horizontal crack, move left to a short crack, take it to another horizontal, move left again and make one more set of moves to the two-bolt lower-off anchor.

After several falls on ground-up efforts, we resorted to a toprope session. Nate and I both succeeded on redpoint attempts on the next visit.

Location

Start down and right of the rectangular recesses at the bottom of the left side of the cliff, at a shallow left-facing dihedral.

Protection

Standard rack, with plenty of small stoppers, and cams up to hand-sized.
Two-bolt lower off anchor.

Photos

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