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Routes in Elephant Toes Butte

Lichen Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
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Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Jim Detterline, Eric Winicov, Richard Bennett, 1983
Page Views: 669 total · 6/month
Shared By: Paul S on Oct 3, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

When looking at the formation coming in on the road, the route starts in between the two toes furtherest left. Bjornstad suggests scrambling up on top of the toes and starting the route there. Look for an old hole, where a drilled piton used to be, this marks the start.

I did a slightly different start. I started at the base of the furthest left toe, once on top of the toe, a few slab moves leads to a crack where you can get a so-so piece in, traverse 5 ft directly right, and you join the original start at the crux (which is really sandbagged at 5.7). The piece placed out left would most likely keep you off the toe if you fell at the crux, but it would be close. Next it looks like a cruise up an easy slab to the top, but that's not the case. The rock is sandy, soft, and had lichen on it, making easy slab moves terrifying. To make matters worse, all those "desert bolts" Bjornstad mentions are gone, and just closed up holes are all that's left. At the end of the slab the rock turns vertical and you can finally get some gear, kinda, the rock takes a turn for the worse, but the climbing is easier, and feels more secure. Finally you are on the top! Enjoy the view, its beautiful.

Protection

I used a pink tricam for the crux, you won't get anything else until the last 15ft which are easy anyways. The chockstone mentioned in the guide book to rap was not there when I went, I couldn't find anything to sling. Not having much gear with us, we had to get creative with our anchor and leave gear behind.

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