Type: Trad, 700 ft
FA: Wasatch Mountain Club?
Page Views: 2,725 total · 21/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Oct 2, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

A route that is open to interpretation, Patty's Ridge is an adventure climb which can be done a number of different way and in a number of different pitches. Climb aretes, cracks, and corners over forgiving, and sometimes fragile terrain. This ridge is a good outing to practice traditional, varied climbing.

Locate and ascend a right-facing corner and stop at a solid ledge. Consider building a belay if doing this in short pitches without simul climbing. Continue here up the dihedral until you reach the ridge. If doing the corner in one or two pitches, its probably best to regroup after the arete on top of the dihedral. Continue by traversing the ridge until you find another good rest and belay. From here climb the very exposed, very sharp ridge. The crux will come for some on the 2nd half of the ridge where there is a nice fist crack near the arete. There is a touchy move in the middle of this stretch, which keep things exciting. Consider building a belay at the base of an obvious dihedral. Climb the dihedral and bring up your second before traversing towards the next crack. For most, the next pitch will be the crux. Regroup before this pitch and tackle the crack. Consider another belay after this pitch and set yourself up before the final arete. Climb the arete, build a belay, and descend.

Descent: Most climbers will walk-off down an obvious scree field gully. Many options vary, see individual comments below for other options.

This line offers great views, great climbing and great exposure! The 1st half of the ridge is the crux and the steepest section of rock.

There is a bit of loose rock here and there, but easily spotted and can be avoided.

Location

This ridge actually separates Stairs Gulch from the Buena Vista, Redrum, Geezer Wall Ridge.

Hike up the Stairs Gulch Trail. When you are almost out of the Dead Snag/Glass Ocean area a dark quartzite ridge runs down to the stream separating the area's. This is Patty's Ridge.

Protection

A super light set of cams and nuts if comfortable at the grade, or a full set plus plenty of slings and a cordelette if you're just getting some leads under your belt. If you start in the wide corner at the bottom bring something big like hexes, or a #3 or #4.

At the end of the ridge is a loose scree gulley that runs east/west, get into this by walking to the west side of the ridge (faint trail) then down the gulley into Stairs Gulch.

Photos