Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches,
Avg: 2 from 4
FA: George Hurley, Bob Culp, 1965
> Eldorado Mountain
> Mickey Mouse Wall
Eagle's Bier is the huge, left-facing corner left of Lifestream
and Beagle's Ear
. Despite being one of the biggest features on Mickey Mouse, Eagle's Bier is somewhat obscure. Not that
obscure though, since there was chalk on it last week when Luke and I did it. The lack of a good first pitch may turn some away.
Rossiter says to start Eagle's Bier in a left
facing dihedral to the left of Lifestream.
Erickson says to start in a right
-facing dihedral. We climbed the first short, left-facing dihedral left of the start of Lifestream
. This dihedral has a pin and may be the climb that Rossiter calls "Roof" 5.10, but the corner felt like 5.8 to me. There are two right-facing corners between what we climbed and Lifestream
. The rightmost looks hard with little or no gear. The next corner to the left looked better, but grungy and a little loose. Perhaps that's the correct start. The best
and most direct start would be P1 of Lifestream
. The crux is low 5.10 protected by a bolt, but the start is a little dicey.
After whichever initial corner you climb, work your way right to the base of the large dihedral. After the initial left-facing corner I moved right on a loose ledge past a tree and then up past a very loose ledge via an obvious but sparsely protected thin crack system. There's a good gear belay in a horizontal flake/crack to the left. Save a #2/gold and #1/red Camalot for the belay.
P2: Climb up to the left of the low angle corner then move right to the main corner. Climb the wide crack via underclings and some body work. A #4 Camalot can be leap frogged. When you reach the red band, traverse right to a good ledge near the Lifestream arête, about 20' above the Lifestream
P3: This pitch is intimidating, but it turned out to be fun, easy and wild. Undercling a slot and move up to a large roof. Traverse right and turn the roof at a nice crack to the right of a wide crack through the roof. Continue to the top. It looks possible after the starting moves to move left into a V-slot, but right looked more classic.
Medium nuts and a single set of cams to a #4 Camalot should do it. A single 60m rope will get you down, but double ropes will save you a rappel.
Bring a 6-8' piece of webbing to back up the thread anchor. You need to do one rappel from the top to get to the regular raps. First you rap to a large ledge at the top of Beagle's Ear. You then continue down, on the same rappel, down to very near the standard rap anchors.