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Routes in Deviation, Lower

East Face, Lower Deviation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lower Deviation Right T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 310 total, 3/month
Shared By: George Bell on Oct 1, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This face looks fun but the rock is friable and it is scary if you're expecting a friendly continuation of the 3rd Flatiron. There is virtually no protection.

In general, the farther right you are on this face, the easier it is.

Eds. note, the rating has been changed to reflect input from climbers below.

Location

For the standard route, start in the middle of the face and follow a ramp up and right, then back left to the summit.

Protection

Very little is available. There is a piton ~75 feet up.

Photos

- No Photos -
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Didn't read this until after I headed up there. When I hit the worst of the crumbling rock at about a meter below the overlap, I turned around and down-climbed the crumbling crap below me back to the base.
The climbing isn't HARD per se. I'd probably run right up it on a rope., but there remains the question of the safety of soloing on this stuff. Roach called the formation "scruffy and unpleasant", and I'd say that's about right. Jun 4, 2014
neil chelton
Boulder, CO
neil chelton   Boulder, CO
I also attempted a route on the left side of the east face. The guidebook explains this goes at 5.0, so I just wandered up there without a rope. After about 70 feet, I encountered surprisingly hard moves on crumbling rock, this felt at least 5.8, not 5.0. I also retreated. Has anyone climbed this? Jan 21, 2010
George Bell
Boulder, CO
 
George Bell   Boulder, CO
 
We attempted a route on the far left side of this face. About 75 feet up is a belay stance with an ancient piton. There is very little to back the piton up.

Above the next 40 feet look tricky, but are probably only about 5.8. It's not clear if there will be any protection. Rather than risk a lead fall onto the piton, we retreated. Oct 1, 2008