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Routes in Hollybush Crack Area

Hollybush Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Leaning Buttress Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Leaning Buttress Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Leaning Buttress Indirect T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Queersville T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yosemite Wall T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Fergus Graham, 1922
Page Views: 26 total, 0/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Sep 30, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

This fun route follows a series of sloping, horizontal breaks up the face of Leaning Buttress. After a bouldery start (physical crux), a ledge is reached, after which there are several highsteps and insecure moves between the breaks (psychological crux). After about 20 feet off the ledge, the climb eases off and follows the slab to the top.

The climb is given HVS 4c in guides, which roughly translates to 5.9. The bottom boulder crux may feel harder for shorties, but there's really just one 5.8 move by my estimation.

Location

The route tackles the face of the narrow, slabby protrusion (the Leaning Buttress) about 100 feet to the left of the prominent Flying Buttress. Walk off to the right of Flying Buttress.

Protection

Some of the horizontals take good cams, and there are a few nut placements in cracks and breaks. The protection is adequate, but not abundant. None of the placements are strenuous.

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