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Routes in Wonder Wall

Arno's Corrner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ladyslipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Unicorn, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route to Root T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Science Friction Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Three Saints T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Waiting for Webster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Wonders Never Cease T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ed Webster & Kurt Winkler - August 1987
Page Views: 129 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brian P on Sep 30, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Pitch 1 (5.9 R) - up solid brown rock past a pin, nice face climbing and thin flakes up right margin of water streak, to new two bolt belay next to pine tree on Airy Aerie.

Pitch 2 (5.10c) - head right to bolt, then face climb up steep terrain past bolts to a ledge. Original finish (5.9) heads left with decent feet and thin flake, then up easier terrain to trees. Direct finish (5.9 R?) goes straight up thin flake.

Location

Upper Wonder Wall (see guidebooks or general Wonder Wall for approach). See photo for route start. At top of route, can traverse north for about 20' (easy 5th) to Ladyslipper two bolt anchor for two rope rappel to start ledge.

Protection

Standard Whitehorse rack mostly taking smaller gear. First pitch is R because some gear is a bit sparse and suspect in flakes. The crux is well protected by new bolts. Double ropes not a bad idea.

Photos

I recently broke a hold near the end of the first pitch and fell on the vertically placed knifeblade that protects the last 20' or so of climbing. Miraculously, the knifeblade held. However, it had blown out the rock that it was placed in and it had bent more than 90 degrees. When my partner was following the pitch, he was able to easily brake the piton by yanking upwards on it. The runout from the bolt to the anchor is now about as hefty as the runout beneath the bolt. Oct 25, 2015