PRINT: Rock Climb K-9 Shanghai, Mt. Hood National Forest

K-9 Shanghai

5.11+, Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 3 pitches,

Avg: 3.8 from 8 votes
FA: Elmo Mecsko/Reed Fee - August 2008
Oregon > Mt Hood Nationa… > Pete's Pile > (5) Lost Dog Wall

Description

PITCH 1: 5.10c - 100 feet of fun, steep crack that keeps getting harder as you move upward. The slightly overhanging crux leads to bolted anchors.

PITCH 2: 5.12a - 60 feet of steep to very overhanging finger/hand crack. Fun and Dynamic movement thru the roof.

PITCH 3: 5.10a - Move to the right, climb the steep arete clipping bolts and a few gear placements. Finish thru an overhang to the left to a big ledge with bolted anchors.

To descend, rappel with a single rope to the top of the 2nd Pitch, from here a 2 rope rappel will get you to the ground (Because of the large overhang of the roof, it is recommended doing the 2nd rappel to the ground with 2 ropes, as it can be difficult to access the anchors at the top of Pitch 1 when you are hanging 20 feet away from the wall!)

Location

Route starts directly below the huge roof and climbs the thin crack straight towards the roof.

Protection

Bring a large rack with very small cams, doubles on small and medium cams, and a 3.5 cam to protect the crux of the route. A few lead bolts on the last pitch. All anchors are bolted.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Redpointing Pitch 2

Topo of K-9 Shanghai Pitch 1

Photo on p3 by Doug Plourde, posted with his permission.

Topo of K-9 Shanghai Pitch 3

Topo of K-9 Shanghai Pitch 2

Elmo moving thru the crux moves during First Free Ascent of Pitch 2.

Moving thru Crux of K-9 Shanghai.

Still Cruxing!

Elmo & Reed at first set of anchors, following Reed's FFA of Pitch 1.

Reed on Pitch 3, K-9 Shanghai

Reed Redpointing(FFA) Pitch 1 of K-9 Shanghai

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Reed Fee
White Salmon WA

A really good route for the Gorge area. Petes pile is one of the few places in the gorge you can do multipitch besides Beacon Rock. The exposure of this route is great, Mt. Hood behind you and the East Fork of the Hood river below you. You can thank Rick Harrel for the inspiration to put up this line.Also for losing his dog in the process. Pitch two has some semi fixed gear for those of you who might want to aid through the crux. Take care clipping the first bolt on the third pitch. Oct 15, 2008

elmo mecsko
Lyle, Washington

5.12a

Really hoping that a party will get the second ascent on this next year! If anyone gets out to try this route please post your comments and opinions as it would be nice to know what others think of this climb.
So great to have done this route with you Reed! Awesome job with that first pitch! Hope all is well in Utah. Cheers, Elmo Nov 9, 2008

Reed Fee
White Salmon WA

Has anybody gotten on this gem yet? Hopefully it wont fade into mossy obscurity. Jun 15, 2009

T_jones
Salt Lake

Living in the gorge for the summer from SLC...looking to go check out Pete's and this route very soon. I'll let you know how it goes Jul 15, 2009

ahparker
Portland, OR

Climbed this route yesterday. Must say, it is excellent, varied, and fun climbing on every pitch, just wish it was longer. Grades felt a little on the soft side to me, but who knows/cares, the route is so good with clean rock (for the most part), good gear, and great movement. Crux is super well protected with a BD #3. First pitch looks incredibly thin from the bottom but takes good gear the whole way and is never too strenuous. I'd say a set of nuts, cams from a purple Metolius to a #1 BD with doubles from blue Metolius to say .5 or .75 BD with a 3 for the roof would sew it up. If you've been debating getting on this thing I say go for it! Jun 12, 2015

Micah Klesick
Charlotte, NC

First pitch is an awesome thin fingers crack. Second pitch is a bit tricky getting up to the roof, and then a burl-fest pulling over it. Can be aided through with a couple cams if you can't pull it. Third pitch is fun slab climbing, and interesting, since its a totally different style of climbing and thus requires a total change in climbing mindset. Do it! Jun 27, 2015

Dan Bookless
Bend, OR

Doing the first pitch alone is totally classic. Great 5.10 trad climbing (especially for the area, especially when beacon is closed) Apr 20, 2020