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Routes in Lost Dog Wall

K-9 Shanghai T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Elmo Mecsko/Reed Fee - August 2008
Page Views: 3,539 total, 32/month
Shared By: elmo mecsko on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

PITCH 1: 5.10c - 100 feet of fun, steep crack that keeps getting harder as you move upward. The slightly overhanging crux leads to bolted anchors.

PITCH 2: 5.12a - 60 feet of steep to very overhanging finger/hand crack. Fun and Dynamic movement thru the roof.

PITCH 3: 5.10a - Move to the right, climb the steep arete clipping bolts and a few gear placements. Finish thru an overhang to the left to a big ledge with bolted anchors.

Location

Route starts directly below the huge roof and climbs the thin crack straight towards the roof. Bring a large rack with very small cams, doubles on small and medium cams, and a 3.5 cam to protect the crux of the route.
To descend, Rappel with a single rope to the top of the 2nd Pitch, from here a 2 rope rappel will get you to the ground (Because of the large overhang of the roof, it is recommended doing the 2nd rappel to the ground with 2 ropes, as it can be difficult to access the anchors at the top of Pitch 1 when you are hanging 20 feet away from the wall!)

Protection

PITCH 1: Double up on small and medium cams. Bolted belay anchors.

PITCH 2: Standard rack including small cams and a 3.5" cam. Bolted belay anchors.

PITCH 3: Bolts and a few standard gear placements. Bolted belay anchors.
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
 
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
 
First pitch is an awesome thin fingers crack. Second pitch is a bit tricky getting up to the roof, and then a burl-fest pulling over it. Can be aided through with a couple cams if you can't pull it. Third pitch is fun slab climbing, and interesting, since its a totally different style of climbing and thus requires a total change in climbing mindset. Do it! Jun 27, 2015
ahparker
Portland, OR
ahparker   Portland, OR
Climbed this route yesterday. Must say, it is excellent, varied, and fun climbing on every pitch, just wish it was longer. Grades felt a little on the soft side to me, but who knows/cares, the route is so good with clean rock (for the most part), good gear, and great movement. Crux is super well protected with a BD #3. First pitch looks incredibly thin from the bottom but takes good gear the whole way and is never too strenuous. I'd say a set of nuts, cams from a purple Metolius to a #1 BD with doubles from blue Metolius to say .5 or .75 BD with a 3 for the roof would sew it up. If you've been debating getting on this thing I say go for it! Jun 12, 2015
T_jones
Salt Lake
T_jones   Salt Lake
Living in the gorge for the summer from SLC...looking to go check out Pete's and this route very soon. I'll let you know how it goes Jul 15, 2009
Reed Fee
White Salmon WA
 
Reed Fee   White Salmon WA
 
Has anybody gotten on this gem yet? Hopefully it wont fade into mossy obscurity. Jun 15, 2009
elmo mecsko
Lyle, Washington
 
elmo mecsko   Lyle, Washington
 
Really hoping that a party will get the second ascent on this next year! If anyone gets out to try this route please post your comments and opinions as it would be nice to know what others think of this climb.
So great to have done this route with you Reed! Awesome job with that first pitch! Hope all is well in Utah. Cheers, Elmo Nov 9, 2008
Reed Fee
White Salmon WA
 
Reed Fee   White Salmon WA
 
A really good route for the Gorge area. Petes pile is one of the few places in the gorge you can do multipitch besides Beacon Rock. The exposure of this route is great, Mt. Hood behind you and the East Fork of the Hood river below you. You can thank Rick Harrel for the inspiration to put up this line.Also for losing his dog in the process. Pitch two has some semi fixed gear for those of you who might want to aid through the crux. Take care clipping the first bolt on the third pitch. Oct 15, 2008