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Routes in The Grotto

... S 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Air Ranger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crash Test Dummy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dipstick S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Game Boy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Garden of Expectations S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Intensity S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Junior S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Giant S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lowrider S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mirror of Erised S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Pacman S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mystic River S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nimrod S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Puffing Hunchback S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rats & Bats S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slammer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stairway to Heaven S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stinger S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stubby S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wonder Woman S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Xanadu S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Louie Anderson (1998)
Page Views: 2,359 total, 21/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Emergency Closure to Protect Sensitive Plant Species Details
Grotto and Lookout closed Details

Description

Approach the actual route by first scrambling up to the top of a block in front of the wall. Follow the fun, steep, juggy face to the top.

Location

Directly across the Grotto from Pacman/Gameboy. Approach the route by actually scrambling up the Grotto for about 20 feet from these routes before crossing over. Superfly is the left-hand of 2 routes on this formation.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 open shuts (stick clip?)

Photos

nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
Fun, fairly sustained climbing with a couple good rests. If you're tall you can reach out and clip the first bolt from the starting ramp. Apr 2, 2016
Grace C
Claremont, CA
Grace C   Claremont, CA
Anderson's guide recommends stick clipping the first bolt, and after climbing this, I definitely agree with him. However, if you're like me and find yourself sans a clip stick, you can at least gain some metal security by scrambling up the bolder, leaning way out, and clipping the first bolt of the route to the right before you go for the first actual bolt on Superfly. I then lowered off and unclipped that first bolt to save myself the rope drag, so it was quite a production for probably not a lot of real safety, but I'd recommend it if you need a bit of mental boost to go for those first committing moves. Apr 15, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
"Superfly" was the left-hand of 2 routes on this face, but as of August 2008 there are 3 routes on this face. The left most route is "Wonderwoman" (5.10c) and "Superfly" (5.10A) is the middle of three routes on this impressive featured orange face in the Grotto. "Air Ranger" (5.10C) is on the arete on the right side of the face. Jan 11, 2010