Type: Sport, 375 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Steve Bechtel and Tom Rangitsch
Page Views: 2,707 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tom Rangitsch on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs up a steep limestone arete following 4 pitches. The rock is sparsely featured, allowing face climbing but with very little in the way of natural pro, hence the bolts. A safe, fun outing with great exposure and cool rock. This climb is an area classic, despite of the fact that it is the only route in the area.

P1 Start just right of a small tunnel/cave entrance. This pitch traverses right passing 7 bolts. The tunnel/cave actually goes up all the way to the belay at the top of the first pitch, and several of the huecos on the route go all the way through to the cave. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a large ledge. 5.11a, 70 feet

P2 From a spacious ledge, start up the arete proper passing crimps and slopers and about 10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor on a ledge. 5.11c, 90 feet

P3 The crux. Lead up from the ledge staying on the arete. The angle gets steeper and the holds get smaller. 12 bolts are passed on the way to a 2 bolt anchor at a ledge. 5.12c, 100 feet

P4 Easier climbing to the summit with 7 bolts. 5.10d, 80 feet

Descend by rapping the route with one 60 meter rope.

Location

Second fin from the right on the Ferris limestone. Approach from highway 287 southwest of Muddy Gap. Almost exactly at mile marker 36, turn off on a dirt road toward the cliffs. There are 2 black mailboxes and a yellow 55 gallon drum at this turn. Drive right by a ranch house (don't worry, it's a public road) and continue to the right. Keep to the right when you have the choice for about 3 miles until you come to a small pond. Turn left here and drive up a poor road for about another 2.5 miles until it dead ends at the foothills of the Ferris. From here navigate up and to your right on foot. The walking approach is about 45 minutes to an hour.

There are several other access roads closer to Rawlins, but they get very sandy and become almost impassable in a passenger vehicle. The approach described is the best one we found after several attempts.

Protection

All bolts, take about 16 and you will be fine.

Photos

Tom Rangitsch
  5.12c
Tom Rangitsch  
  5.12c
To see more photos and a short video, go to
web.me.com/kondus/DEA/DaveA… Sep 29, 2008
Looks like a real wyoming outing. Nice work Dr. Tom! Everyone thought of it, but you guys did it. 3 cheers and good luck on the next outing there. Oct 7, 2008
Corona  
Pretty inspiring. I'm keen to go check it out! Aug 1, 2011
BJ Null  
This place looks amazing..

there seems to be alot of development potential...any chance for more moderate long pitches? Aug 25, 2012
Cameron Sumpter
Lander, WY
Cameron Sumpter   Lander, WY
Looks like going out for a few days and scouting around would be worth the trip! Jun 16, 2015