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Yertle the Turtle

5.12a, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 99 votes
FA: Joe Sulak, Shawn Treadway
Texas > Austin Area > Reimers Ranch > Dr. Seuss / Prototype…

Description

Good fun on 11- holds/moves to a tough crux at top. I remember this climb as being a climb that started making me realize good technique will make some hard climbs feel really easy once you get it all down.

Location

To the left of Flinch 12b (last route before rockfall area) on Dr Seuss Wall which is the raised area left of Prototype...

Note: This route is mislabeled as Blowing Smoke at the Monkey in John Hogge’s 2nd edition guidebook (orange cover). 

Protection

4 bolts + Mussys

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Andy Shields reaches through the crux of 'Yurtle the Turtle'<br> <br> Photo by Du Lo
[Hide Photo] Andy Shields reaches through the crux of 'Yurtle the Turtle' Photo by Du Lo
Out of the slots and into the upper crux
[Hide Photo] Out of the slots and into the upper crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
 
[Hide Comment] This route is only about 30 feet tall, and climbs the nice looking brown rock with 4 bolts. Dec 2, 2008
Dylan Weldin
Ramstein, DE
 
[Hide Comment] Painful crux hold makes working on this one rough... Dec 18, 2011
jjjjjjjjjj
[Hide Comment] Yertle is basically a tall boulder problem, but totally worth doing. Many people stick-clip the first and even second bolt (2 bolts out of 4), but you don't need to stick-clip at all, it's very easy to clip. Oct 30, 2015
Jesse Bruni
Austin
 
[Hide Comment] youtu.be/W2pofXeuwBU?list=P… May 1, 2017
Danny Andrews
Austin, TX
 
[Hide Comment] If you stick clip the second bolt (with the rope through it) does it still count as a redpoint? Clipping that second bolt from the crimp rail just doesn't seem like a 5.12a move... Jan 10, 2018
Jesse Bruni
Austin
 
[Hide Comment] Danny, most redpoints on this route are done with the 2nd bolt pre-clipped for safety reasons (it's a difficult clip and you can deck if you blow it) and yes, most people count it as a redpoint. However, clipping the bolts on lead doesn't give you 12b by any stretch, it's still 12a. Jan 16, 2018
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
[Hide Comment] Great little climb. Action packed, technical, and a cool variety of moves that keep you fighting until the chains. Jan 9, 2019
Tim Worley
Missouri City, TX
[Hide Comment] I used some slightly diferent beta than in the video and it made the move to the second pocket feel a lot easier to me.
youtu.be/nV8z37WhWA4 Feb 17, 2020
Kate Taylor
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Not an easy 12- but a super fun one! Here's some fun sized lady beta (video starts after the first few moves): instagram.com/p/B-gA2OyFdYT/ Apr 14, 2022