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Scorpion

5.11b, Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 3.7 from 25 votes
FA: Dale Bard & Bob Locke - July, 1976
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Medlicott Dome > W Face, Left
Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

This is an awesome route that has a lot of variety: steep jugs to start, thin slab, a beautiful crack, and a roof. New ASCA hardware makes it a very safe outing as well.

Begin just left of The Yawn corner and the obvious Wailing Wall roof.

P1: Monkey out left on jugs, then stand up to clip two bolts. Pull up into a corner, clip a high bolt, step down and perform a thin traverse left. Finally, finish with super-thin slab moves up to the anchor. 5.11b, 100'.

P2: Thin moves off the belay past two bolts to an easy, fun crack. Bolted belay. 5.11b, 80'.

P3: Cruxy moves up a steep crack ease after a bit. Finally, pull a fun, airy roof above and traverse left to the anchor. Lower off this anchor back to the belay and TR your second up. 5.10d, 90'.

Protection

Draws & slings, a single set of cams to #1 Camalot. Wires.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

General line of the route
[Hide Photo] General line of the route
Gavin wiggling some gear to attempt to protect the moves to the first bolt. Not pictured: sloping ledge ~10-15 feet below the roof.
[Hide Photo] Gavin wiggling some gear to attempt to protect the moves to the first bolt. Not pictured: sloping ledge ~10-15 feet below the roof.
Ross S. nearing the crux on P1
[Hide Photo] Ross S. nearing the crux on P1
Ross S. following P1
[Hide Photo] Ross S. following P1
Pitch 3. The rap anchors are right after the roof. A single rappel with two 70 meter ropes brought us all the way to the ground.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 3. The rap anchors are right after the roof. A single rappel with two 70 meter ropes brought us all the way to the ground.
Pitch 2 crack section
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2 crack section

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Will M.
Oakland
[Hide Comment] If you don't want to bring a second rope you can easily rap with one 70m from the top. This climb was kinda spicy at the start before you clip the first bolt. Jul 17, 2017
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Super fun line...up there for the best 3-pitch granite route I have done. Cruxes are well protected, great exposure, and lots of different techniques required. Can be rapped with a single 70 easily. Jun 22, 2020
Andy Puhvel
Bishop, CA
[Hide Comment] Wanting to do this, but a little confused (based on route description above and comments below) about the rap situation. Can it be rapped with one 70 meter rope? Route description says two ropes, Will M. in comments says one rope. Jun 22, 2020
Josh Janes

  5.11b
[Hide Comment] "If you don't want to bring a second rope you can easily rap with one 70m from the top".

"Can be rapped with a single 70 easily." Jun 22, 2020
[Hide Comment] Perhaps my favorite 11d-ish 11b route in Tuolumne.

I found the top crux of the first pitch much harder than the supposed crux traverse, or anything else lower. Maybe something broke? Second pitch, incredible micro edging and slabbing to great crack system.

Topping out via Super Chicken was great. Always love visiting Lake of the Domes.

Fantastic route. Aug 8, 2020