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Ernie Used to Box

5.10+, Trad, 100 ft,  Avg: 3.7 from 47 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Moab Area > Indian Creek > Reservoir Wall
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details
Access Issue: Portions of Reservoir Wall are on private land and should not be climbed. Details


This seldom climbed offwidth might be just what the doctor ordered for you wide crack affectiano's. Start in a flaring tight corner with a loose flake for your feet and a hand crack in the back. The crack slowly widens as you grunt your way up the flare to about #4 Camalot size. Take a good rest in a chimney stance, pull around a bulge and then start the right angling traverse. Hands to fists to offwidth take you to the anchor.


Just right of Three Fools. An obvious wide crack in a flare that curves up and right after about 60'.


This route requires mostly large gear up to a #5 Camalot. I would recommend 2 #2's, 3 #3's, 1 #3.5, 4 #4's, 1 #4.5 and 1 #5 these are all Camalot size's. Two bolt anchor at the end.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nick onsighting up Ernie Used to Box.
[Hide Photo] Nick onsighting up Ernie Used to Box.
Climber David Kolcinski . Photo by Anthony Johnson.
[Hide Photo] Climber David Kolcinski . Photo by Anthony Johnson.
David towards the end of the chimney. Photo by Anthony Johnson.
[Hide Photo] David towards the end of the chimney. Photo by Anthony Johnson.
Ernie Used To Box
[Hide Photo] Ernie Used To Box
right at the sinker thankgod hand jam
[Hide Photo] right at the sinker thankgod hand jam
#4 section
[Hide Photo] #4 section

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dave E.
[Hide Comment] this thing is one of the funnest routes ive done at the creek. Asolutely Classic!!! Jun 11, 2009
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
[Hide Comment] I would say the first 60 feet of the crack is primarily #4 size, and only gets bigger near the chimney for a couple moves. I left a #4 at the top of the vertical crack, placed a #3 inside the chimney, and another #4 above the chimney. I recommend taking 7 #4 C4s, a 0.5 C4 2 #2s, 3 #3s, and a #5 for this route. I slung long all the pieces in the initial crack to avoid rope drag. An older 4.5 camalot is nice in the last 15 feet before the anchor (could take instead of a #4). This was my first off width lead, though, so a more seasoned off width enthusiast would probably feel fine with less. This number of #4 cams will let you leave 4 in the first 60 feet, one above the chimney, and two in the traverse crack. The traverse crack also takes the #2 cams and #3 cams. The 0.5 could go at the first big traverse move after the chimney. I had two 0.75 C4s (brought as recommendation from Bloom guide book). One fit at the start of the traverse move above the chimney. I tried to place a second one fully extended during the first big traverse move in a smaller crack, and it didn't fit! There is a #2 placement on the other side of the smaller crack where my 0.75 didn't fit, but the #2 takes up a really good hand jam slot... Nov 2, 2012