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Routes in Dum's Kitchen

Art and sport S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Don Quijote De La Mancha S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Good Medicine S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jaidom S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Jumping For Jugs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lion King S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mai Mee Fahn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Name S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pahn Taa Lod aka Schlingel Moritz S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reminiscence S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Remix Direct S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rod Yak aka Schlingel Max S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sit Spins, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tiger Queen, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wake and Bake S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 15 ft
FA: Cyro Glad 1992
Page Views: 827 total, 7/month
Shared By: Robert MacKinnon on Sep 28, 2008
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

The start is the crux.
Starts 10 m right of Wake And Bake

Protection

Three bolts plus four threads & anchors.

Photos

If you can touch the first hold at all, you likely will find the subsequent steep climbing more difficult than the start. At 5'9", white, overweight and unable to touch a basketball net, I could latch the jug. I found the climbing above to be pumpy and nice; only the back-scratching tree branches detract from the quality.

It should be noted that this route is probably more like 12 meters right of Wake & Bake (the first route right of W&B is By Way of Deception, another nice route with a strange, bouldery start). Jumping for Jugs is identified by the body-sized hueco hanging from a roof about 7 feet up. This area is nicely shaded for those of us who stayed up too late at Sawadee Bar.

Cheater stone = A0. But it is the beach, so who cares? Sep 29, 2008