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Routes in Memorial Day Buttress

Aggression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Casual n' Kind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dave Anderson Memorial Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13
Judas Priest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Memorial Day Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: D. Boyd & D. Turville, 1970 FFA: J. Donini & M. Ward, 1978
Page Views: 923 total, 8/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Sep 28, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

An obscure, yet adventurous line that deserves mention, the Memorial Day Route follows the obvious weaknesses on this seldom-climbed formation near the mouth of LCC. Begin at a large, keyed-in spike of rock beneath the prominent roof. A few gritty moves gain an undercling that traverses leftward past a pin, then pulls a small roof to a ramp. Belay from a comfortable, low-angled stance located just beneath the start of the Mouth Variation (.11). Step across a gaping chasm and into the cleft just beneath the obvious Mouth slot. You may encounter a bit of dirt and/or moss--most of the holds were cleaned during our ascent--on the thin edges as the route meanders in and out of the corner past two pins. Pull out of the corner then onto a slab with a two pin anchor. The final pitch climbs a right-diagonalling crack through an overlap, then past a scary flake resting precariously on a ledge below the final steep, wide crack. Belay from the ledge directly above, or continue up the wild, featured slab to anchor in the trees. Get after it!

Location

Approach the Memorial Day Buttress from either the Bongeater or the Crescent Crack Buttress; either approach will involve at least some bushwhacking through the scrub oak... Descend from atop the third pitch--a double rope rappel from slings in trees will put you on the ground just uphill and to the east of the start of the route.

Protection

Bring a standard rack with cams from micros to fists--doubles may be useful.
There is a very large loose block about 2/3 of the way through the Mouth formation if you take the Mouth variation. The climbing at this section isn't hard but it is tempting to place gear behind this block- don't! May 4, 2017
zoso  
Nice Blog. Mar 23, 2011
Aaron Collins
Santan Valley, AZ
Aaron Collins   Santan Valley, AZ
What a day!! After not climbig very much since moving back to Az, this approach and route spanked me, and I seconded the whole thing. A burly start with a burly finish with in your face climbing in between. Kudos to Jared for the awesome job leading it. Later that evening, he went out and ran 16+ miles, before watching the fights. What a beasts!! It was so cold our hands and feet were numb for most of the climbing, finally at the belays my hands would warm up and just kill. The weather was nasty!! It snowed for a good part of the climb and the wind never let up. All and all an unforgettable day out with James, the Manimal,and Belnap. Thanks Guys!! Mar 23, 2011