Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, 2007
Page Views: 1,856 total · 15/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 28, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Access Issue: Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

This newer addition to the Roof Area has cleaned up nicely and offers continuous movement without any stopper moves making it a good choice for those breaking into the grade or running laps.

Climb a short flared corner to a ledge and then over a bulge on mostly good holds to another ledge. Stem and lieback your way up a flared corner to a crux sequence pulling another bulge. Once past the crux vertical face on large holds gains the anchors.

Location

Right of center in the Roof Area midway between Balrog on the left and Epiphany on the right.

Protection

11 bolts, ring anchors

Photos

Tyler Quesnel
Eliot
 
Tyler Quesnel   Eliot
 
Pretty fun, sustained and straight forward climbing. Crux is just a pump test so save your energy. Last bolt before the anchors I skipped, but there's probably a good clipping stance somewhere there. Aug 3, 2011
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.11b/c
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.11b/c
A pretty important right hand gaston(after a left hand crimp), which is also my favorite move in the entire climb, has broken off. I believe its after the 3rd or 4th bolt? Dec 27, 2011
Ian McG
  5.11b
Ian McG  
  5.11b
Yea, it was at the first bulge, at bolt 4? Now that this hold is missing, the move has become pretty height dependent. At 6'1", it doesn't seem to be much harder, but for shorter folks, this move probably bumps it up a grade. Mar 16, 2012
Is the arete on route? If so, the missing hold isn't important at 5'6". (I found the upper bulge much harder, mostly due to pump.) Apr 22, 2013
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.11b/c
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.11b/c
Added chains and fixe biner to the anchors on top yesterday. Enjoy

Broken hold still not there after 4th bolt or so, after the first buldge. Most people I see now go way right on the arĂȘte, make a few moves up then back left Dec 3, 2015