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Totally Flaked

5.10a, Sport,  Avg: 3.2 from 144 votes
FA: Mike Cronin
S Dakota > Spearfish Canyon > Mohican > Head Shop Wall

Description

Climb a detached pillar to get to a layback crack. This used to be rated 5.9 but has since been extended. The old 5.9 anchors do not exist anymore!

This route started out as a 5.9 layback crack climb when it was originally bolted. Later, it did get extended and became a 5.10+ climb around 2010. About a year later the developer decided to chop the extension and installed new stainless steel anchors at the position of the original anchors. Most locals agree that the climb is 5.9, but some folks think a 5.10- might be a more accurate grade.

Protection

About a dozen draws now.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Satermo sending
[Hide Photo] Satermo sending
Cruising the beginning of Totally Flaked, a very rewarding 5.9+ at Mohican.
[Hide Photo] Cruising the beginning of Totally Flaked, a very rewarding 5.9+ at Mohican.
Getting totally pumped, and there is more to go!
[Hide Photo] Getting totally pumped, and there is more to go!
The crux is coming up after a brief rest.
[Hide Photo] The crux is coming up after a brief rest.
Totally Flaked, 5.9+<br> <br> A must do canyon classic!
[Hide Photo] Totally Flaked, 5.9+ A must do canyon classic!
Kyle climbing
[Hide Photo] Kyle climbing

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Glenn Foltz
[Hide Comment] Wow was I shocked when I had a heck of a time finishing this "5.9"... Glad to see that the route was extended from what it was in the old guide. Jun 27, 2010
R Walters
Sonora, CA
[Hide Comment] I pulled a head-sized block off near the top of this puppy a few weeks ago at an undercling. ?feels a tad harder than 10b now IMO. Quality extension otherwise. Jun 28, 2010
Mike Cronin
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] Reggie
Does the spot where the block was need cleaning. I was also wondering if the anchors need moving. I have heard that they can be hard to clip. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks
Mike Jul 1, 2010
R Walters
Sonora, CA
[Hide Comment] Hey Mike, I suppose it could use a bit of scrubbing as there was a some dirt behind it. I would have but didn't have a brush. Everything else looked solid.

Anchors might be tough to clip for shorter folks. Maybe a few more chain links would make it easier rather than having to re-drill? Hope summer is treating you well. Jul 2, 2010
Glenn Foltz
[Hide Comment] I wondered if that might not be a recent "improvement"! I wiped the roots off the wall where the block was... didn't have a brush so its not immaculate. I don't think that anything else will flake off for another eon or two. I am not all about making anything easier, but it might be nice to move the anchors to where the last bolt is... IMHO it would keep the route a consistent 9+ish instead of having a 10d finish to a 9+ route. Jul 3, 2010
BBQ
 
[Hide Comment] I just climbed this route a few days ago. I believe the original developer has chopped the extension and replaced the anchors back in their original spot. I miss the extension, however, it could be said that having the anchors where they are now preserves the original character of the route. AWESOME ROUTE! Killer layback sequence! A rarity for the black hills. DO THIS ROUTE! Jun 9, 2011
Mike Cronin
Rapid City, SD
[Hide Comment] Yes the anchors were dropped back to the original location. I felt the route lost cool factor for more diffculty. Back to 9+. Brent you should say a few words about it. Jun 10, 2011
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Climbs like something straight out of the best of Tensleep, great rock!
Good route to get limbered up Apr 17, 2017
Connor Pargman
Woodbury, MN
 
[Hide Comment] Better off footjamming for most of the climb now. Almost all the goodish feet/ smear spots are very greased. Jun 1, 2021