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Routes in Head Shop Wall

Abba Zabba Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Brainfart S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chalk-A-Lot S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Double Bubble S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Sleeve's Attached S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Totally Flaked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
ice cream headache S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
migraine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 1,141 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kai Segrud on Sep 27, 2008 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Climb a detached pillar to get to a layback crack. This used to be rated 5.9 but has since been extended. The old 5.9 anchors do not exist anymore!

This route started out as a 5.9 layback crack climb when it was originally bolted. Later, it did get extended and became a 5.10+ climb around 2010. About a year later the developer decided to chop the extension and installed new stainless steel anchors at the position of the original anchors. Most locals agree that the climb is 5.9, but some folks think a 5.10- might be a more accurate grade.


About a dozen draws now.
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
Climbs like something straight out of the best of Tensleep, great rock!
Good route to get limbered up Apr 17, 2017
Yes the anchors were dropped back to the original location. I felt the route lost cool factor for more diffculty. Back to 9+. Brent you should say a few words about it. Jun 10, 2011
I just climbed this route a few days ago. I believe the original developer has chopped the extension and replaced the anchors back in their original spot. I miss the extension, however, it could be said that having the anchors where they are now preserves the original character of the route. AWESOME ROUTE! Killer layback sequence! A rarity for the black hills. DO THIS ROUTE! Jun 9, 2011
I wondered if that might not be a recent "improvement"! I wiped the roots off the wall where the block was... didn't have a brush so its not immaculate. I don't think that anything else will flake off for another eon or two. I am not all about making anything easier, but it might be nice to move the anchors to where the last bolt is... IMHO it would keep the route a consistent 9+ish instead of having a 10d finish to a 9+ route. Jul 3, 2010
Hey Mike, I suppose it could use a bit of scrubbing as there was a some dirt behind it. I would have but didn't have a brush. Everything else looked solid.

Anchors might be tough to clip for shorter folks. Maybe a few more chain links would make it easier rather than having to re-drill? Hope summer is treating you well. Jul 2, 2010
Does the spot where the block was need cleaning. I was also wondering if the anchors need moving. I have heard that they can be hard to clip. Any suggestions would be great.
Mike Jul 1, 2010
I pulled a head-sized block off near the top of this puppy a few weeks ago at an undercling. ?feels a tad harder than 10b now IMO. Quality extension otherwise. Jun 28, 2010
Wow was I shocked when I had a heck of a time finishing this "5.9"... Glad to see that the route was extended from what it was in the old guide. Jun 27, 2010

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