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Routes in Weenie Buttress

Big Weenie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Excalibur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indian Drug Carpet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lorain's T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Magic Wand S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thor's Hammer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 301 total, 3/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Sep 27, 2008
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

You & This Route


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Description

Start left of Big Weenie on the ledge. Make powerful moves up and slightly right into the nice undercling. Then more hard moves over the bulge. Delicate, though easier, climbing waits above.

Finishes about 15 feet up and left of Big Weenie, so it would be easy to continue up from that to set up a TR if no one in your party is up to leading it.

Location

Just left of Big Weenie.

Protection

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rap rings.

Photos

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Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
Nice sport line! Climbed this one after Big Weenie and without knowing the route name or difficulty. Need-less-to-say, we gave it an 11c/d rating. It felt similar difficulty to next line, which I now know as Indian Drug Carpet. Both routes were enjoied while visiting the crag in 2008. The objective was to see how many sport climbs we could lead through in one day, starting with the east end of the bluff and heading west. Wow, we were sore by the end of that trip. Thanks for placing the bolts fellow climbers.
Marcus Floyd Nov 6, 2012