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Scuttlebutt

5.6, Sport, 40 ft,  Avg: 2.1 from 67 votes
FA: Dave Quinn
New Hampshire > Rumney > Crow's Nest
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

Climb the chimney in center of right the wall, just left of Pee Wee's. It is really fun if you like chimneying at all, and actually kind of thought provoking for the grade. More engaging and fun climbing than it may look from the ground. The crux may be exiting the chimney onto the left face about 2/3 way up. People often do a corkscrew move to accomplish this. Get on it!

Location

to the right of the Little Mermaid

Protection

bolts to L.O.'s

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Austin at the anchors
[Hide Photo] Austin at the anchors
KLS working it!
[Hide Photo] KLS working it!
Scuttlebut
[Hide Photo] Scuttlebut
Scuttlebutt
[Hide Photo] Scuttlebutt
Scuttlebutt
[Hide Photo] Scuttlebutt
the dark chimney of scuttlebutt
[Hide Photo] the dark chimney of scuttlebutt

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
[Hide Comment] any more description then the right chimney? is the route any good? how the moves, help me out here a description that told me about the route would be nice Apr 20, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
  5.6
[Hide Comment] I watched some people get in and chimney the whole way up; it's doable.. but wasn't my cup of tea. I opted to treat it as a face climb, stemming out to the right frequently. I hopped into the chimney for a few feet before reaching the anchors. Mar 21, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
[Hide Comment] a fun little climb for sure.... cleaner and more interesting than some routes in the area... Apr 13, 2010
twellman
Cambridge
 
[Hide Comment] Why the PG13 rating? There are like 6 bolts in 30 feet. Perhaps because a fall would suck you into the chimney?

This route is really fun for how short it is. Also, felt a bit harder than 5.6 when done staying outside the chimney and stemming, but real fun nonetheless. Apr 13, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
[Hide Comment] yeah, over bolted? maybe... unsafe? no... Apr 13, 2010
[Hide Comment] Depends if you like chimneys I guess. Apparently I'm not a huge fan, because I found this supremely awkward. Was very happy not to be trying to trad climb it. Jul 19, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Finally got on this today and found it enjoyable, with a corkscrew move nearing the anchors.

Clip the first bolt for the left face then dive into the chimney using your entire body to climb. the crux comes around the last bolt when you have to turn around (either direction works). Fun climbing up a chimney very foreign for Rumney. Aug 20, 2010
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Super fun climb! I disagree with the PG13 rating. Sure it would suck to fall in a chimney but that doesn't mean this route is not well protected. Jul 26, 2011
kenr
 
[Hide Comment] One of the most interesting chimney climbs I've done. Aug 5, 2011
twellman
Cambridge
 
[Hide Comment] Lee, I think it would be appropriate to remove the PG13 rating, given the super safe bolting of the climb. Wouldn't want anyone to miss out on scuttling their butt up this one because of a false sense of danger. Apr 21, 2013
[Hide Comment] I wish this pitch was 200' long so that I could know the true meaning of a grovelfest. Jul 4, 2015
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
[Hide Comment] Exhausting. Never again. Oct 13, 2015
Jackie Sweet
Burlington, VT
[Hide Comment] Crux is last move or two going for the anchor. I found the best way to do it is to face the left wall. Going up through the chimney was fun and involves your entire body. I only wish it were longer. Oct 21, 2018