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Just Say No to Nancy
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Rock Garden
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28 K S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Baby Bun Right S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Big Brett the Baker's Buddy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bottom Line, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Buffalo Chips S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bust A Move S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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California Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cetus V11 8A |
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Come A Time S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Copacetic S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Court Jester S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crack House S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Darla Does Buckwheat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Do the Right Thing S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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DOA S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Double Trouble S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fed Ex S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Feet, Don't Fail Me Now T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Fine Young Cannibals S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Garden, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gun Control S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hanging Garden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Honeycomb S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hot Chocolate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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I+CN'? S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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It's a Schu-in S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jeremy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Jugalicious S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Just Do It S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Just Say No to Nancy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Killer Pillar, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ligneous Embracer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lycra-Phobia S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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My Kids Climb S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ned's Highball aka Cyclops V3 6A PG13 |
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Ninos y Viejos S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Honor Amongst Theives V6 7A |
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Organic Gardening T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Otto S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Palming the Porcupine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pantalones Perdidos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pardon My French S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Penal Code S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pick Pocket T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Pumping Pockets S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Reckoning, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rocky Mountain Oysters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rude Mood S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ryan's Frightmare (Big Jim) V2 5+ PG13 |
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Scratch 'n' Sniff S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shield of Achilles, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Slapstick S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Slinky + Escalator V11 8A |
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Static Cling S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Super Crack V0 4 R |
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Team Geritol S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Terror, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Time Bandit S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Time in Disguise S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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U2RNXS S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown V0 4 R |
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Wallrus S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Who Dunnit Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ya Hoo Serious S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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You're Busted S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Dave Brower, Mark Milligan |
| Page Views: | 708 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Morehouse on Sep 27, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
Details
Per A Lee: *ACCESS ISSUE* - PULLOUT PARKING CLOSURE
The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.
The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.
The parking lot off Hwy 41G used to be the established point of access to the main canyon, but it is now closed. On 5/31/2020, an access issue arose due to the lot being overcrowded with ~7 vehicles. Saguache County Sheriff was called by the landowners, and the climbers were asked to leave the canyon. Climbers should park at the Penitente Main Canyon and hike in, or park at the established BLM parking lot 1 mile West on 41G and hike the road.
The SLV Climbers Alliance, with support from the Access Fund, is navigating this access issue. Contact slvclimb.org for questions or status reports, or join the Facebook Group "San Luis Valley Climbers Alliance" for the latest updates.
Description
Just Say No to Nancy has steep, well-protected climbing right off the deck that leads to a crux at 2/3 height and transitions to lower angle terrain and a little slabe to the coldshuts.
It is a fun route and is worth doing.
It is a fun route and is worth doing.
Location
Look for a tall featureless wall near where the Penitente trail comes into the Rock Garden in the canyon. There is a small, steep fissure/dihedral-like feature on the left side and a line of bolts to the immediate right going up to a couple of closely spaced, very chalked up underclings/pockets at 3/4 height. This is the route.
Photos
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