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Routes in Wonder Wall

Arno's Corrner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ladyslipper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Unicorn, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rain Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route to Root T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Science Friction Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sky Streak T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Three Saints T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Waiting for Webster T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wonder Wall T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Wonders Never Cease T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Uwe Schneider and Chris Stevens - 4/29/1991
Page Views: 1,355 total, 12/month
Shared By: Brian P on Sep 25, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Variation to pitch 1 of Science Friction Wall and alternate to pitch 1 of The Last Unicorn. Start at two bolt anchor between the two routes mentioned and up steep wall past two bolts.

Up and trend right to join The Last Unicorn, you'll finish up steep headwall with bolts then heading right into an overlap, anchor is two bolts (can backup with gear) top of pitch 2 of Last Unicorn.

I've never gone this way, but up and left to join Science Friction Wall.

Location

Route starts right of Wonder Wall tree ledge at two bolt anchor. Take South Buttress trail to bottom area of Inferno Wall, up 4th class ledge/gully to Wonder Wall tree ledge, across this, down short chimney, and easy 5th class to anchor. The best guide to Whitehorse is the "Whitehorse Ledge Rock Climbing Super-Topo" by S. Peter Lewis, see tmcbooks.com.

Rappel back to anchor area and reverse approach.

Protection

Bolts (some older) and standard rack, a little runout in spots.

Photos

Going left is much harder, and much more run out than joining Last Unicorn. If joining Science Friction, you definitely want gear, and you want to have a cool head. It is certainly PG13, and the gear I found was not very "confidence inspiring." All that being said - absolutely superb pitch. There is a set of newish bolts in the roof you can see from the belay ledge. I left the 2 'biners on it in case people need to rap from there - please leave them for others. Oct 11, 2016
Ksween
Wakefield, RI
Ksween   Wakefield, RI
Great route. Some bolts are a little old and rusty, some are in great shape. The movement was great fun with a stout crux right off the belay. As for rack, I only found a placement for a red c3, maybe I missed something, but i wouldnt bring a heavy rack. Jun 10, 2016