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Routes in Tiny Town

Ray of Heaven S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Short Sport S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six Feet Over S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Tiny Town Pillar T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 32 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 432 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 22, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

The low down

Climb the steep, patina-laden west face of the obvious pillar south of the main rock in Tiny Town. This looks like a pillar from the west but less like a pillar from other angles.
It's a short but fun route and worth doing on your way in or out. D. Bingham gives this route three stars in his Castle Rocks book.

Where do I find this route?

The route starts behind a tree on the west face of the pillar. The patina and horizontal cracks are obvious.

If I fall, what's there to stop me?

A vertical crack down low followed by horizontal cracks up higher offer protection placements ranging from a .3 camalot to a #1 camalot. No anchors on top--body-anchor belay the second up from a secure stance up and over the top and walk off to the east via an easy scramble.

Photos

Charlie S
Ogden, UT
 
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
 
Heady. The largest piece was a BD #0.75 near the beginning in the vertical crack.

For the belay, go up and over, sling a patina plate and then use two blue alien sized pieces in the crack. Can't see your climber, but the corridors carry voices very easily. Jun 7, 2014
Spot on Brian. super fun route, well worth doing. I ended up pussin out left,easier climbing but harder to protect. May 25, 2010
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
 
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
 
There are cam placements available for the belay anchor. Small to medium, rig for upwards pull. There's also a very small tree to sling as well. Simul rappel to get off, or, carefully downclimb.

Great route. A lot of bang for a little buck. May 26, 2009