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Routes in Tower Three

Blind Faith S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heroes are Zeros T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mon Ami S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Virga S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Gordon Douglass & Frank Ray 1988
Page Views: 80 total, 1/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Sep 22, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Park your car off of the main canyon road Details
Park your car off of the main canyon road. Details
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Mon Ami is NOT your friend.

Still cleaning up a good twenty years later, Mon Ami is a ridiculous dance between pockets and small chips. Starting off easy, this route immediately gets down to business after the second bolt. What looks to be a rather harmless face, turns out to be a rather brutal kick in the teeth. Mon Ami is a delicate line, and by delicate I mean deteriorating.

Climb up an amazing system of small pockets and smears passing two distinct cruxes, catch a quick rest or two, but don't get comfortable; finish on some fragile rock at a two bolt anchor. Wicked despite its somewhat poor quality!!

A fantastic line that will only get better or harder with more traffic?

Location

At the very top of the shooting gallery on left side 25 feet above Blind Faith.

Protection

Seven or Eight bolts to an anchor.

Photos

Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.11b
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.11b
Line of friendly pockets.... AAAAGGGHH! That's what you'll be shouting when you're trying to match your 2 fingers undercling with an index mono while standing on rapidly disaggregating "feet".
Great line though, long moves, small holds, intricate, balancey, and the tat at the anchor is worth a picture! Sep 19, 2011