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Klein's Girls
5.11a,
Trad, 30 ft (9 m),
Avg: 2 from 8
votes
FA: Dave Medara & Pat Mcinerny 1990
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Hellgate Cliffs
> Tower Two
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description (top)
Climb a pocketed slab for about 30' to reach a thin crack. The book says a 3 1/2" cam can be used as pro in a pod, other thin options are present. From there the angle steepens and a bolt appears. Stem, crimp and moan your way up the thinning crack to a final mantle on a ramp.
Location
KG sits on the left (west) edge of Tower 2 next to the Shooting Alley. It follows an obvious crack to a dark alcove about 60' up. It's maybe 30' left of Deja Vu and shares anchors with
The Shadow. Which you should do btw...
Protection - OMG it's not a clip up yur gonna die!!
1 bolt and gear from tiny cams to #3 BD. Maybe the recommended 3.5 for the pod down low - if you can find it. A BD #1.5 (what's that in Friends' size?) would fit the obvious pocket. Rappel off 1 bolt with chain and 1 fixed nut with tat.
![Negotiating the thin crux on Klein's Girls]()
[Hide Photo] Negotiating the thin crux on Klein's Girls
![GRK slabbing his way up the dihedral on Klein's Girls before retro-bolts]()
[Hide Photo] GRK slabbing his way up the dihedral on Klein's Girls before retro-bolts
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Salt Lake City, UT