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Routes in (05) The Transition Zone

Doggie Go Roof S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Factory Direct S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Have Slab Will Travel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Princess S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rode Hard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stick To Stucco S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wavy Gravy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Bernard Moret, Mark Ondrias, 6/23/1998
Page Views: 980 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dave Wachter on Sep 22, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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Low crux off the ground, with longish reaches to deep pockets (there are crappy pockets, too, which may help shorter people reposition to get the good ones). Footwork is key. Easier mid-section, then cruxy again above the last bolt. Stay just left of the bolt line up top, or else you'll get sucked into the crack way out right, and have a sharp and scary (though considerably easier) climbing experience. Don't know why they call this a "pocket route" - there are only about 3 pockets on it, but I guess that's more than average for Palomas.
Nicely positioned in a little nook among trees, so it's a good route to climb when it's hot.


5 well-placed bolts



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