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The Stick
5.11d,
Sport, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 3 from 36
votes
FA: Doug Reed, Rick Thompson 1989
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> New River Gorge…
> Endless Wall
> M) Fantasy Area
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
You'll most likely want to stick clip the first bolt. Start by using a large undercling and muscle off the ground through the low roof. The arete stays engaging for a couple of bolts with a crux coming as you move onto the left face. Climbing is easier for a few bolts as you continue up the face until the arete ends and you head toward the right side of the 3 ft wide overhang. Hand traverse under the overhang and pull it on the left side. Engaging climbing on high quality lighter stone brings a little pump before the anchors.
Location
Start about 15 ft to the left of the start of Black and Tan and about 10 ft to the right of the start of Virgin Thing.
Protection
9 bolts, shuts.
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