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Routes in Yosemite Crack Zone (Left)

Rocky & Bullwinkle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Special K T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spike T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Telephone Booth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vivian T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Yosemite Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 424 total, 4/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Climb out the tight-hands roof, then up a right-facing corner that varies in size. When the crack pinches, there is an old 1/4" bolt, some slabby moves on fragile rock get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Location

Start about 100 feet left of Yosemite Crack.

Protection

Standard East A rack - #3/#4 Camalot + one bolt.

Photos

Jason S.
Durango, Co
Jason S.   Durango, Co
Thanks for the info and for adding a second bolt to the anchor. Looks like I need to try it again. I may end up unintentionally testing that antique... at least there is gear beneath it! Sep 10, 2011
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
 
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
 
Climbed this a couple years back when it used to end at one bolt. I remember the moves at the top being pretty insecure and on marginal rock. I added a second bolt to the anchor. Pretty good route, but the soft finish takes away from the overall quality. Sep 5, 2011
Jason S.
Durango, Co
Jason S.   Durango, Co
The top of this one is strange. I didn't see any features for "slabby moves", and ended up aiding. Anyone actually climb the last 7' of this one? Sep 3, 2011