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Routes in B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyon)

Innominate T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Angle of Repose T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Bonawaim T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cry Wolf T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dancin' in the Dark.II 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great North Ridge, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hot Buttered Popcorn with Salt T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Laughing Lizard, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Naked Truth., The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ranting Ravens. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raucous Wren., The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebus 5.10 T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rosco's Delight T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Scorpion Slab T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Seaside Stroll T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Sidewinder T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Super Crack of the Reef T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wandering Poet T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Windstorm Grove T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: John Glime Paul Ross (Alt Leads) Sept 8th 2008
Page Views: 995 total · 9/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Located in Spotted Wolf Canyon.A low grade route with some nice situations.The climb was named after a Bruce Springsteen song when we met up with a chap at the trail head with a guitar, asked by one of the party if he knew any songs by Bruce, he immediately bust into Dancin' the Dark. Quite appropriate! I guess to on-sighting a new slab climb.

P1). Start at the foot of the ridge. Climb an easy slab to where it steepens,climb past two bolts to double anchors. 200' 5.5.
P2).Continue around a big block then up the ridge keeping to the right,one bolt and some cam protection to double anchors. 200'5.5
P3).Keep to the right edge passed an exposed move, Natural pro to cam belay on big ledge to the left.200' 5.5.
P4).Follow the edge passed one bolt to double anchor belay at the top of the slab climb Scorpion that comes up from the left.150' 5.6.
Descent . Two raps down Scorpion then 4th class down the Amphitheater slabs.

Location

Walk through Little Spotted Wolf Canyon almost to its end . Just past a massive slab ampiththeatre with two caves at its top the low angled ridge is to the right.

Protection

Several cams from 1/4" to 4". Slings .Two 60m ropes.

Photos

USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
 
As always thanks for your comments . We were a bit disappointed with this climb as we though the ridge continued to the far summits .. It was there so we went up it .. However as you you found there are not many of the routes in this area that will disappoint as far as an adventure ! Mar 24, 2015
SMH Climber
Midvale, UT
 
SMH Climber   Midvale, UT
 
I agree this is not for a 5.6 leader. I would rate the pitches as 1. 5.6R, 2. 5.5, 3. 5.5R, 4. 5.7R. The belay for pitch 3 was not easy to find you end up traversing about 50 feet in from the arĂȘte. We came up short with the 60 m rope on pitch 3 and I had to simul climb about 15 feet. Over all it was still a fun adventure. we dud 3 double rope rappels as well. Mar 18, 2015
A 5.6 route for climbers who lead harder -- I would not recommend this if 5.6 is your limit. It's an interesting, varied and quite scenic route but (as typical for the Reef) there are places where you're routefinding on fragile rock with no protection in sight, while keeping the rope away from flakes perched above your belayer (we trundled some of those after passing). The diagonal line is challenging for followers too.

We did 3 double-rope rappels down Scorpion Slab to reach 3rd class slabs at the base, then scrambled 100 feet or so to the ground. Mar 23, 2014
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
This route ended too soon. It was suppose to keep following the ridge to the top, but we ran into a big sandstone crevasse. The last pitch puts you on the top of Super Crack of the Reef. You can set up a top rope, or just admire that beautiful crack.

Don't mind the first few shitty bolts on this route, they're solid, enough! That's what happens when you forget the blow tube in the truck. Sep 23, 2008