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Frankenstein

5.13c, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
FA: John Dunn
Colorado > Rifle > Rifle Mtn Park > Well-Dunn Wall

Description

Frankenstein is the hardest, and also the most "natural" route at the Well-Dunn Wall. Employing large reaches and thuggy movement this monster follows a line of weakeness out the center of the cave, and then moves up a steep dihedral, eventually moving left to end at the Bride of Frankenstein anchors. Due to it's manufactured nature, reachy moves, tendency to be silty, and overrated neighbor, this route is the most neglected route at the Well-Dunn Wall.

Make some thrutchy moves on awkwardly oriented pockets to a large pod and setup for a very large move to a flake system in the roof. Moving off the flake, fight through the redpoint crux, and get into the steep groove above the roof. Although it's easier and less overhanging, the climbing remains tricky and extremely pumpy, so work the stems and shake when you can. At the top of the dihedral, move left until you reach the anchors of The Bride of Frankenstein.

Some say this monster should never have been created- that it defies nature. Despite everything, this route has lots of potential- offering solid rock, and good movement. All it needs is a little love and attention. In time, people may learn to love Frankenstein. Until then, we will continue to let it gather dust, and pretend that this freak of nature doesn't exist.

Location

Protection

Bolts, and the drop through anchors of The Bride of Frankenstein.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Zacharias Gustav
Santa Cruz, CA
  5.13d
[Hide Comment] I agree with the fact it is actually quite natural. There is an obvious, glued block in the roof and a couple reinforced underclings getting to there, but otherwise it is quite natural. Aug 19, 2022