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Routes in The Dedication Area

Castaways T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dedication T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diss-N-Dazz T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
It's Five What? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Move it or Lose it S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Robinson Crusoe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Six Bolts and a Plug S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul Survivor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Michael Hartrich, Albert Dow, and Ed Webster: 9/12 & 9/13, 1981
Page Views: 3,116 total, 28/month
Shared By: Brian P on Sep 18, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

1 - Up blocky terrain to open corner to tree ledge (loose gravel and rock) - 5.9+

2- Easier climbing leads to overlap/roof, pull over on left (bolt), up open groove (crux, bolts & small cams), bolt belay near dying tree - 5.10b

3 - Up and right over Soul Survivor dike, up headwall (lighter rock), right facing corner, to another corner on left, top slab to bolt belay - 5.9

Alternative to pitch 3 would be Diss-N-Dazz (5.10c).

Location

See Ed Webster guide (Rock Climbs in the White Mtns of NH) for full cliff description. Up trail past boulders near road, up to cliff, head left, starts in broken terrain under Castaways.

Can do 3 raps with one 60m, but the first rappel is close! Solidly knot the ends on the first rap, might need to scramble or pull over to bolt belay. Using two ropes is a safer option.

Protection

Some pins and bolts plus standard rack for this area, possibly some extra small cams and a large cam (to help protect roof/overlap on pitch 2). Belays are tree (1) and bolts (2 & 3).

Photos

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
Tim, I love your phrase "semi bomber." Having lived and climbed here for the past 35 years, that makes perfect sense. Here's a possible technical definition: really glad it's there, looks good, if I fall I'm not putting my full weight down, would rather have a big shiny, but this is North Conway... Dec 6, 2016
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
 
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
 
Great route. The hard parts have great protection. Probably not a great climb for someone not comfortable with runout, easy, but enjoyable climbing with short well protected exposed cruxes. The 3rd pitch is varied and exposed with bomber gear, but conserve it since you'll be feeling the drag.. The crux 2nd pitch has a semi bomber nut right where you need it. Climb smart and this is wonderful! Oct 10, 2016
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
If folks really think this is R,,then many Conway climbs should be regraded X Jun 30, 2016
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
I feel inclined to give an alternative opinion on why this route is an excellent multipitch outing, to offset some previous comments:
1. There is fun, engaging climbing of a consistent grade on all pitches.
2. The exposure and movement on pitch 2 in the stemming section is super fun and exciting (check out the cover photo!)
3. The gear is good in the hard parts, yet still leaves it a bit exciting (this is NoCo, not Rumney).
4. The belay ledges and anchors are comfy and safe and new.
5. The Dizz-n-Dazz finish is awesome!

The runout part of pitch 2 is on quite easy climbing as I recall.

Have fun on it! Jun 30, 2016
The second pin on P1 has been broken off. It wasn't for falling on anyways, so traverse right a bit to put a cam in the flake. Dec 14, 2015
john gregory
Lebanon, NH
john gregory   Lebanon, NH
A three star multipitch route should meet the following requirements:
1. very clean
2. good pro. Safe.
3. easy route finding
4. solid rock

RC doesnt pass any of these requirements. P2 is the demise, IT IS A RUNOUT X without the large #4-6 cam. I dont think the guide book should say this is OPTIONAL?! (esp if you are giving it 3 stars). The first 20 feet of P2 (once you find the route) is not hard, but there is only gear behind a lg loose block (cannon style) and then you climb 10 more feet to a huge disgusting, odiferous, draining, cave-like abscess, peregrine porto-john that you have to slime through while doing the balancy stem to clip the first bolt. Oct 14, 2015
John Halupowski
Intervale, N.H.
  5.10b PG13
John Halupowski   Intervale, N.H.
  5.10b PG13
The first 2 pins on P.1 are old rusty knife blades that I put Screamers on. I would not like to test them. Apr 30, 2015
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
 
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
 
The second pitch is the slightly sketchy one. Up to the roof is easy, but the rock isn't perfect and the gear is sparse. Once in the groove above the roof (right about were Travis is in the cool fisheye pic) things are a little spicy, pro-wise. There is a flake out left that will accept some small stuff (RPs or equivelent, micro-cam) but it's really hard to see the placement without losing your balance (at least for me), and that's what protects the crux face/stemming moves. I've never fallen on the stuff, and don't really want to. Jul 24, 2014
Matt Desenberg
North Berwick, ME
  5.10b PG13
Matt Desenberg   North Berwick, ME
  5.10b PG13
The first pitch is classic and great to do by itself.

The crux second pitch has pro that is a bit rattly, I think I had a green/yellow alien in a thin flake. Not R per se, more like PG. It's not horrendous by any means, but definitely makes you pay attention. Nov 23, 2013
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
The new North Conway guidebook marks this as 5.10b R. Does anyone know the essence of the runout? Sep 29, 2013
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Nice climb. Not many good 5.10's around with this variety. Mar 27, 2010