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Routes in Pierson Point

Face aka Spicy Chicken Fajitas T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
South Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 420 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 69 total, 1/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a route of modest length with an alpinish feel along the right side of the right buttress. Certainly, it attracts the eye for the uninitiated. It has a slightly more challenging variation on pitch 1. There are certainly nice stretches of rock separated by looser, ledgier stretches. Allen suggested calling it "Hawk's Head Ridge" if no name can be found for it.

P1. Find a highly featured slab with slightly runout but delightfully easy terrain. About 80' up, move left into a corner with a 5.8 move at the top. Continue up to a ledge with an angle piton and belay, 175'.

Variation: about 40' up, you can move left into a hanging dihedral with a 5.9 move gaining the dihedral. Very pleasant slab climbing is protected by a wires-to-Aliens sized crack on the left. Join the above pitch at ~80'.

P2. Move up a small headwall past a Leeper pin just above the belay, 5.7. Continue up on easier terrain to gain the arete. Move up and right around a small roof (Hawk's Head). Then, head up into a slot. Pop out above a small roof (rope drag here) and move up to find a belay, ~190'.

P3. Continue up low 4th class to the summit. Some may unrope for this last pitch, ~60'.

Walkoff to the right. Note, it will be a bit challenging to determine where to traverse back to your gear.

Location

This follows features along the right edge. See the photo.

Protection

To a #3 Camalot. #4 Camalot optional. 60m ropes are nice.

Photos

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