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Squid Vicious

5.6, Trad, 35 ft,  Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
FA: Chris Miller
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Prairie Squid Wall

Description

Start just right of the block that sits at the base of the wall, climbing straight up the face, passing several horizontals and a couple bulges. This one is just left of the obvious center crack in the wall (Prairie Squid). The crux is surmounting the last bulge. Above, traverse left over plates to the top rope anchor. If not setting up a TR, clip the anchor and climb the roof above (fun, maybe 5.7) then walk to a crack system to set up a gear anchor. If you set up a TR, you will still need to lead past the roof and bring up a second, in order to clean the draws, unless you choose to exit right along an unprotected ledge. Walk to the right (south) to descend and turn right at the end of the wall to return to the base.

Protection

gear to 2", gear anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Negotiating the upper bulges, en route to the roof.<br>
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Photo by John Hoffman
[Hide Photo] Negotiating the upper bulges, en route to the roof. Photo by John Hoffman
On Squid Vicious, looking for gear placement amidst the flora.<br>
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Photo by John Hoffman
[Hide Photo] On Squid Vicious, looking for gear placement amidst the flora. Photo by John Hoffman