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Bowery Boys

5.9+, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2 from 20 votes
FA: Brad Singer & Pete Paredes, September 2006
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Big Bear City Area > Holcomb Valley… > Pinnacles East > Lower E Side > Bowery Rock

Description

Start with easy climbing on the broken slab on the left side of Bowery Rock. Use care while surmounting the top of the slab because the large upper plate is loose and could shift. After clipping the first bolt, continue up the headwall. Some interesting moves define the crux, protected by the second bolt. Finish on positive holds past one more bolt, and another interesting sequence, to a large belay ledge with rap anchor. A great lead that keeps you on your toes! This climb has seen few ascents and still needs a lot of cleaning but is surprisingly sticky for the feet, except for the finishing move. Rappel to descend.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The hangers are camouflaged, so this makes them a bit easier to spot.
[Hide Photo] The hangers are camouflaged, so this makes them a bit easier to spot.
Bowery Boys (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
[Hide Photo] Bowery Boys (5.9), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles
Tom Donnelly through the crux of Bowery Boys.
[Hide Photo] Tom Donnelly through the crux of Bowery Boys.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Fun edging moves on good rock but it's really short with only about 20' of actual climbing. Be aware that the first bolt is fairly high and you need to make some moves to clip it instead of from the good ledge below. Aug 7, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] Technical face climbing with interesting crisp holds - well worth doing. You have to pull a move to clip the first bolt, an error here could lead to broken bones or a flip head-over-heels, not good. There's small cam potential on top of the large Africa shaped flake which constitutes the opening section of the climb. Nov 2, 2013
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
5.9
[Hide Comment] I recommend hexes instead to reduce chance of blowing out the flake. A micronut like one of the smallest DMM peanut sizes actually fit ok between a small flake around waist level and the wall just before real climbing leading to the first clip. Regardless, the clipping stance from the obvious right foot matches well a less obvious left foot at similar height and together felt surprisingly secure. Jul 26, 2018
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
[Hide Comment] I didn't note any cam placement that would actually save you from a mishap, maybe slow you down? The first bolt is indeed high but the rock is solid and the move is below the overall grade for the climb. The routes are short but fun and likely completely to yourself. Anchors are all double fixie ring variety. Jul 9, 2019