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Routes in Bowery Rock

Bowery Boys S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Central Park S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Katz's Deli S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Brad Singer & Pete Paredes, September 2006
Page Views: 154 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start with easy climbing on the broken slab on the left side of Bowery Rock. Use care while surmounting the top of the slab because the large upper plate is loose and could shift. After clipping the first bolt, continue up the headwall. Some interesting moves define the crux, protected by the second bolt. Finish on positive holds past one more bolt, and another interesting sequence, to a large belay ledge with rap anchor. A great lead that keeps you on your toes! This climb has seen few ascents and still needs a lot of cleaning but is surprisingly sticky for the feet, except for the finishing move. Rappel to descend.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Fun edging moves on good rock but it's really short with only about 20' of actual climbing. Be aware that the first bolt is fairly high and you need to make some moves to clip it instead of from the good ledge below. Aug 7, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.9 PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.9 PG13
Technical face climbing with interesting crisp holds - well worth doing. You have to pull a move to clip the first bolt, an error here could lead to broken bones or a flip head-over-heels, not good. There's small cam potential on top of the large Africa shaped flake which constitutes the opening section of the climb. Nov 2, 2013
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
5.9
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
5.9
I recommend hexes instead to reduce chance of blowing out the flake. A micronut like one of the smallest DMM peanut sizes actually fit ok between a small flake around waist level and the wall just before real climbing leading to the first clip. Regardless, the clipping stance from the obvious right foot matches well a less obvious left foot at similar height and together felt surprisingly secure. Jul 26, 2018

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