Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Pete Paredes & Brad Singer, June 2007
Page Views: 127 total · 1/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Although you may be tempted to jump on this one from just right of Snelled Hook, you'd be missing some of the best climbing on this route as El Gancho is an interesting mix of slab, crack and face climbing. Scramble down the notch towards the start of By Hook or Crook. Climb the slab past a bolt to gain the short crack. The crux comes while working the crack up to plates on the right. Top out with an easy finish on large plates. Rappel or walk left to descend.


This is the third bolt line, counting from the climber's left.


4 bolts, bolted anchor shared with By Hook or Crook


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Balancy lieback moves down low are the crux but the lieback higher requires some thought. Don't blow the third clip or risk decking on the slab at the base. Jun 29, 2009
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
Oh, wow.....we agree Chris!! (teehee). Yep, tough .10b moves through the shallow crack section. Almost blew the clip at bolt #3.....was getting a bit pumped. All of Holcomb heard my whimpering that day!

Nice route and best one on the wall!! Jul 28, 2009
I'd like to see someone lead this direct, straight up on the bolt line for the slab. I had to go a good foot or more left once I got started, couldn't do the slab straight on, probably was off :/

Buy "blow the clip" I think you mean fall while clipping with the slack out. Well for sure you can't do that, but I didn't feel like I could fall at all on the 2nd bolt or I'd hit the ledge. To me, once you move far up enough to reach the 3rd bolt, you basically have to make the 3rd clip or downclimb, no falling.

If you fall high on the slab you're likewise probably going to hit the backwall. A bit of a dangerous route if you do it clean, to me overall. Aug 2, 2012