Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Pete Paredes & Brad Singer, May 2007
Page Views: 634 total · 5/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

15 Opinions

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This is, IMHO, the best route on this wall! This is the leftmost of the four bolt lines on the east face of One-Eyed Cat Wall. It opens, like the others nearby, with a very interesting start. Work the underclings and small edges up the slightly negative headwall to a ledge. Clip the last bolt and tackle a second crux: a delicate sequence on mostly featureless slab. It is best to rap this route or belay from the top as extending the anchor (to remove rope drag) will eliminate the cruxy finish. Rappel to descend.


This is the second bolt line, counting from the climber's left.


5 bolts, bolted anchor


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Decent climbing on suspect plates with the crux moving past the 2nd bolt. The moves past the last bolt are easier than it first appears and require getting your feet up and trusting the friction. The guidebook indicate 6 bolts on this route, but there's only 5.

The anchor is poorly located and will trash your rope if not careful - best to extend it with slings and/or rap off. Jun 29, 2009
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
The moves on this route are amazing! This is the best route on the wall. Leaned back and juggy, with a few reaches to keep it interesting. Definite must do! Aug 29, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Fun route with a similar finish to One-Eyed Cat. The steep section past the first three bolts is a blast. Jul 22, 2012