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Routes in One-Eyed Cat Wall

Beat the Devil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Classic Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying High as the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Had a Lean on My Sole S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hole in the Ozone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Iceman Cometh S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mask of the Devil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One-Eyed Cat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Voodoo Glow Skulls S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Pete Paredes & Brad Singer, May 2007
Page Views: 605 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is, IMHO, the best route on this wall! This is the leftmost of the four bolt lines on the east face of One-Eyed Cat Wall. It opens, like the others nearby, with a very interesting start. Work the underclings and small edges up the slightly negative headwall to a ledge. Clip the last bolt and tackle a second crux: a delicate sequence on mostly featureless slab. It is best to rap this route or belay from the top as extending the anchor (to remove rope drag) will eliminate the cruxy finish. Rappel to descend.

Location

This is the second bolt line, counting from the climber's left.

Protection

5 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
Fun route with a similar finish to One-Eyed Cat. The steep section past the first three bolts is a blast. Jul 22, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10b
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10b
The moves on this route are amazing! This is the best route on the wall. Leaned back and juggy, with a few reaches to keep it interesting. Definite must do! Aug 29, 2011
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Decent climbing on suspect plates with the crux moving past the 2nd bolt. The moves past the last bolt are easier than it first appears and require getting your feet up and trusting the friction. The guidebook indicate 6 bolts on this route, but there's only 5.

The anchor is poorly located and will trash your rope if not careful - best to extend it with slings and/or rap off. Jun 29, 2009