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Routes in One-Eyed Cat Wall

Beat the Devil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Classic Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying High as the Sky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Had a Lean on My Sole S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hole in the Ozone S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Iceman Cometh S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mask of the Devil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
One-Eyed Cat S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Voodoo Glow Skulls S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: (TR) Fred Maki & Chris Miller, 2005, FL: Brad Singer and Pete Paredes, May 2007
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This one’s a great route for the moderate leader! Start just below the top of a long, slanting rock. I’d say the crux is the first move. Head straight up through the jug-fest on vertical rock to a large belay ledge. A fun route that requires some careful shifts in balance and a few mini-stems. Rappel to descend.

Location

This is the third bolt line, counting from the climber's left.

Protection

4 bolts, ring anchors

Photos

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9+
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9+
I can't agree with the 5.8 rating on this climb. There wasn't a 5.8 climb on this wall as far as I recollect, and we did everything that was bolted. I'm not sure if we were just off route, or maybe the FA climbers were just really really stout.. If you are a 5.8 leader, be careful when considering this climb. I would put it at 5.9+ due to the reachy/crimpy/balancy moves. When compared with other 5.8's in the area, this is definitely a lot harder. Aug 29, 2011
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Somewhat awkward feeling climbing on this with the best moves at the top. The 2nd bolt is positioned such that if you fall clipping you'll hit the rock at the base. Jun 29, 2009