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Routes in JHCOB Wall

Deep Dark Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dualing Banjos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dust to Dust T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
First East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Osiris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Outside Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Predecessor T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ream's Chimney T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Retrobution S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scottish Gully, The WI4 M4
Second East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spastic Funk T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unemployment Line S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Weed B Gone T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Weed Killer T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
West Side Water Slide T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: John Steiger, Brent Manning, Sept. 2008
Page Views: 108 total, 1/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Sep 17, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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This is a somewhat intricate line that starts out mellow, but turns spooky as it works around several small roofs with some questionable pro and a short section of suspect rock. Not destined to be popular, but it might merit two stars for those who seek some spice in their cragging.

Just to the right of the start of Weed Killer is an obvious roof band maybe 20 feet off the ground. Begin on gray rock touching down just right of the roof band. Climb up and left, over the far right end of the roof band, to catch an obvious crack system in a small dihedral. Cruise up the crack until forced to step left. Face climb up, staying right near the arĂȘte formed by edge of the face, into a large right-facing dihedral, capped by a roof extending right. Make a few moves in the dihedral until possible to step left onto a small ledge. At this point, one can easily escape onto Weed Killer, which is about 6 feet to the left, but Dust moves right under another roof to some hanging blocks. Climb cautiously over the blocks to easier ground leading to the Weed Killer chains.


Between Weed Killer to the left and Deep Dark Crack on the right.


Standard trad rack, possibly supplemented by microcams or small TCUs. Extra runners. No fixed pro. Expect some new route detritus (wear helmets). Rap from the Weed Killer chains (a 70 meter rope will work, but otherwise use two ropes), or continue up Weed B Gone or one of the other routes leading to the top and walk off.


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