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Five Finger Discount
5.10a,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 225
votes
FA: R. Laird and C. Laird
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Capitalist Crag
> Lower Capitalist Crag
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation Bumbling Stock Evil Area Ghost Crag Highlander Skinny Legs Stumbling Block Tetanus Garden Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
The route begins approximately 15 feet to the left of Lunch Money (just right of Cheap Labor). Easy climbing leads up the face below a short roof. Continue through the flaky/juggy roof and past a few ledges to the base of a clean headwall. Interesting, body positioning moves through the headwall will take you to the anchor.
The climbing to the base of the headwall follows the natural weakness in this area of the cliff. The route continues straight through the headwall to create a crux finish.
Protection
Bolted. As of 2017, top anchor is 2 stainless steel rings and a 3rd hangered bolt on the left that can be clipped while toproping.
[Hide Comment] Another indication that I was climbing horribly today. This route wasn't in our book and I would have given it an 11 rating. To me this was at least a number grade harder than the surrounding routes.
Did a hold break off the sloper headwall?
Jun 20, 2010
[Hide Comment] A tad more difficult than Lunchmoney, which requires a little bit of muscle. More balance than brawn will get you through the crux up high - last two bolts.
Jul 29, 2010
[Hide Comment] The crux at the smoothish headwall requires a couple of high steps. To get up onto the intial bulge at the headwall, move right. Hard move if you have weak quads like I do, but there are decent (not great) hands if you look for them.
Mar 24, 2015
[Hide Comment] I thought this was just as fun as Lunch Money. The bottom part is easier, and the top crux is about the same difficulty. The cold shut anchors are about 1/4 way worn through. The lone bolt to the left looks to be in great shape, but there is no lowering gear.
May 1, 2017
[Hide Comment] Greg Barnes and I replaced the two cold shuts at the anchor with Petzl SS hangers and SS quicklinks and rings. The original bolts are 3/8" x 3.5" SS wedge anchors, so we did not replace them. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
May 8, 2017
[Hide Comment] The nut on the second to last bolt was very loose when we climbed it yesterday. I hand tightened it, but it could probably use a wrench.
May 6, 2018
[Hide Comment] Agree, it's about the same difficulty as Lunch Money. Really enjoyed all the overhangs on this wall as they had positive holds to assist you over the ledge.
Sep 11, 2019
[Hide Comment] I thought this was a touch easier than Lunch Money. The holds are a bit thin below the anchors, but it’s less pumpy than Lunch Money’s layback finish. Both good climbs, though I had more fun on Lunch Money.
Oct 8, 2020
[Hide Comment] Man, this thing always feels so hard and scary, lol. I'm a solid 10 climber and working on redpointing more 11s, but the second half always feels really insecure, reachy, and crimpy. I think Lunchmoney is way easier. Very, very solid 10 IMO and a nice slab testpiece at the grade. The key is high foot holds.
I've also decked on the ledge on this climb a long time ago and screwed up my ankle ,so it gets in my head a bit. Take my comment with a grain of salt.
Mar 31, 2024
Avg: 2.5 from 225
votes
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
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Boulder, CO
Did a hold break off the sloper headwall? Jun 20, 2010
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I've also decked on the ledge on this climb a long time ago and screwed up my ankle ,so it gets in my head a bit. Take my comment with a grain of salt. Mar 31, 2024