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Routes in Practice Rock

5.6 Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bird Woman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blind Black Babies T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cardiac Arete S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cardiac Bypass T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fiver, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jerry's Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jerry's Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last of the Wild Ones Variation T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pinnacle Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinnacle Standard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rosebush Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Silent Rock T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slanting Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spiral, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strawberry Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Theoretically T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tough Trip Through Paradise T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown Variation T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wide Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wizards Well T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 75 ft
FA: FRA: Clark Alexis, Fall 1989
Page Views: 1,955 total, 17/month
Shared By: S. Stember on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Potential road closures in winter. Details

Description

Climb the mixed line of bolts, while placing a couple cams along the way. Start off with two cams, followed by a .5 camalot. Just before the second bolt place a small C3 or alien, reach up high and clip the bolt. After this, boldly move upwards on easier terrain with no pro for a good little jaunt.

Location

This is the very first set of routes you see when you approach the crag. Walk a short distance to the right when the approach trail comes to a "T" and you must choose right or left. Blind Black Babies is the rightmost route and has the 2 obvious bolts.

Protection

5-6 draws, some trad some sport
small cams
no nuts
material for the anchor

Photos

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B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
  5.9
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
  5.9
2 bolts. One at first bulge, one at second. There is a decent .5 or blue TCU placement on the slab before the second bulge, and a great yellow TCU placement at about 3/4 height. This was all that felt necessary protection-wise, but there are certainly other placements to be had.

4 draws (2 for bolts, 2 for anchors) are all that are necessary. The cam placements are close enough to the natural line that they probably don't even need extension.

Huge moves between even bigger jugs. Felt super safe and fun, almost like climbing in a gym. Good chain anchors with rap rings.

One of the best .9 single pitches I've ever been on.

Have fun! Jun 5, 2014
Bud Martin
Bozeman, MT
 
Bud Martin   Bozeman, MT
 
Yes, two bolts and a purple TCU works well to protect before the second bolt. Sep 21, 2010
Justin Marlen
Bozeman, MT
Justin Marlen   Bozeman, MT
I think there are only two bolts nowadays, one right off the ground, and another protecting the bulge. Mar 31, 2009
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
Probably want 5-6 draws plus material for anchor, not 3 draws. Sep 18, 2008