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Randy's Polka

5.11d, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: Randy Kieliszewski, Steve Habovstak, 1992
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Above & Beyond Wall

Description

Randy's Polka can be described as somewhat chossy 5.8 climbing to a V3/4 boulder problem, but the crux moves are on excellent rock and involve using features that are very unusual for Big Cottonwood quartzite (Ruckmans' guide will give it away).

Begin by climbing 15 or so feet above potentially bone-breaking boulders to a bolt, continue to a second bolt 15 feet higher, then work right and up to the base of the roof and a third bolt. Crank the roof, clipping a fourth bolt enroute, and scramble to the chains.

Location

Randy's Polka, which shares its start with The Horse's Mouth, begins about 100 feet left (west) of Hari, on the central part of Above and Beyond Wall. Look for two widely-spaced bolts just right of the largest roof on the cliffband. Rap from chains.

Protection

QDs.