PRINT: Rock Climb Shadow of Death, Wasatch Range

Shadow of Death

5.10, Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 3.6 from 35 votes
FA: L. Ellison, P. Maloney, 1983
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Lone Peak Cirque > Hyperform Wall

Description

A striking line, the Shadow of Death climbs the obvious, splitter handcrack just uphill and to the right of Megaform. Follow the amazing crack as it gradually widens to a squeeze, then wriggle your way through the flare and to an alcove belay just beneath a roof. Step right into a splitter corner that eventually narrows from wide hands to fingers through a series of airy roofs. At the top of the finger crack, step left into a slot, then past a short section of loose blocks to the rim. With a bit more traffic, this stellar, varied route is destined to become one of the cirque's best at the grade. Descend west along a faint trail that eventually deposits you at the mouth of the cirque.

Protection

A standard rack: bring at least one #5 Camalot--or equivalent. Doubles in hands to fists recommended.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jon coming up the final stretch to the alcove belay.

Tyler in the maw, wondering how this route only gets one star in the guidebook... (the alcove belay is visible just under the shaded triangular roof)

the flaring chimney, about to harsh Tyler's mellow...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bsmoot

Thanks for posting this route...Les raved about this line. Sep 18, 2008

Ari Menitove

Good route. Remarkably clean for how infrequently I am assuming that it gets climbed. We brought a single set of cams from #3 - #5 BD, and there would have been way fewer shenanigans involving downclimbing and back-cleaning if we would have had 2 #3 BD's and 2 #4 BDs. And we definitely used the #5 BD, too. Aug 10, 2009

Shiho

A must-do classic route in Lone Peak! It's worth the hike and the extra weight. My inner thighs hurt... Jul 22, 2013

Greg Gavin
SLC, UT

This climb is exactly 90 meters long which makes if 295ft. Just sayin! Shingo's description lines you up for a fantastic 60m pitch 1, and awesome 30m pitch 2.

Shadow of Death is a phenomenal line that should be on every crack climbers list. No solution pockets here to save your ass! Jul 13, 2016

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT

Phenomenal. Pairs well with Hyperform, or any of the other routes on that wall, I'd imagine. Don't let the OW sections scare you off. I'm no OW aficionado and I got through it with one hang in the squeeze on P1 because I blew a sequence. If this is close to your limit you will want two #4s in addition to that #5. Had doubles in everything else and was happy to have them. Jul 5, 2017

Devin Rogers
Temecula CA

5.10b

Wow what a great route. It's so worth it for p2, which is one of the best I've ever climbed. You get a solid run through the entire range of splitter crack climbing on this route. Fingers, rings, thin hands, good hands, cups, fists, stacks, & squeeze, and a couple of really fun little roofs (all easier than the roof on Vertical Smile). Doubles to 4 and a #5 worked out perfect for this route. If this punter can get up the OW then you can too. It goes from excellent stacks right up into a fairly secure flared squeeze for 15 feet or so. Don't get enticed into the first section of handcrack on p1 that requires a face traverse into the main crack. This face traverse isn't a huge deal if you're over 6' but otherwise you're gonna have a bad time. Other's have bailed off a fixed nut with a biner here. Based on the route photos, I'm pretty sure you're supposed to climb the direct face line leading up to the main crack, which appeared to be protectable and easy. Do yourself a favor and climb this route. The extra 4 and a 5 only weigh 1.5 lbs, so forget that excuse. Aug 14, 2019

Joey Jarrell
SLC

This is an absolutely incredible crack climb. It's got everything! 5 stars.

Don't worry, the wide stuff is the best part! Aug 29, 2019