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Routes in Cuban Missile Tower

Khrushchev, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Operation Anadyr T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Wookie Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 3 pitches
FA: A. Leeflang, Roped Solo, August '08
Page Views: 57 total · 1/month
Shared By: Arie on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The Krushchev is a fine three pitch communist line ascending the west face of the formation. It is a direct threat to capitalism.

Pitch one: Pick your poison. Either climb the obvious trough splitting the center of the lower formation (5.5R grovel) or the fantastic bulging slab on the left (5.5X). Or the molted face on the right (5.9 TR). Whichever way leads to a large ledge with a single bolt and poor gear belay. 100'.

Pitch two: Climb the bottoming/flared crack off the ledge (5.9) to a short section of brush battle. Or climb the cool slab on the right (directly above the bolt) 5.8 R (spooky!). Pass the brush on the left (let'm be), and climb fun hands/slab up an ever narrowing formation. Use care with this crack as it leads straight to hell (or at least the hollow underbelly of the formation). 100' of rope leads to a semi-awkward belay at a rounded spike.

Pitch three: Cool, semi-exposed slabbing up the pinnacle summit. Lead out across easy terrain following the humped-back spine. Run it out for ~twenty five feet through moderate (albeit scary) terrain to a hidden hangerless bolt (I strangely came up short on hangers...). Ten more feet lead to a bomber horizontal crack and a step onto Fidel's Cap. A final bolt protects the fantastic 5.8 finish. Belay off a natural arch/hole on the tight summit. ~60'.

Location

Descent: Rappel off the backside utilizing some odd traversing/climbing to reach the notch on the east. The direct route is rappel-able, but there is minimal fixed hardware and the existing slings will probably be rotted out.

Protection

A light rack including a #3 camalot, one rivet hanger (or stopper) and extra webbing/slings. Four bolts (all hand drilled- wilderness...) total on the route- three on the semi-poorly protected final pitch.

Photos

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Arie
Smog Lake City, Utah
 
Arie   Smog Lake City, Utah
 
I must give kudos to my buddy Vladimir (aka Hunter) who hiked twice with me to fire the Cuban Missile- once to get spanked by snow, and another to get spanked by croutons. Sep 16, 2008