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Routes in South Summit Wall

Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Expanding Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gardner's Delight , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inner Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft
FA: E. Lyman & S. Ohkawa, Summer '08
Page Views: 3,200 total · 28/month
Shared By: mountainsense on Sep 15, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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The route begins in a shallow, left-facing corner, midway up the ramp that leads to the base of the Gold Wall (L.Ellison, C.Noble, 1980). Climb the corner to a small ledge, step left into a finger crack to a small roof. The original line traversed right on small face holds--avoiding the layback--to gain a finger crack that leads to a ledge. The roof/right facing corner can also be dealt with directly; committing layaway moves gain a flaring crack that eventually leads to the same ledge and to an optional belay beneath a small roof, the belay takes 1" to 2.5".
From the stance beneath the small roof, trend leftward, climbing thin edges to an overlap. Undercling the overlap to gain a thin stem box below a large, rectangular keyed-in flake. After surmounting the flake, climb the clean face above; continue up the face along twin parallel seams to a thin gear crux just below a belay stance with a bolt. The bolt can be backed up using a small cam or wire. A short, leftward traverse (maybe 5.8) joins the Gold Wall just below the roof.


A standard rack: small wires--offsets useful--with doubles in tips to finger-sized cams. The single bolt at the belay can be backed up with a small wire or cam.


Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
this pitch is great! I liked it better than Shingo's other Gold Wall gem, the P-38.

we were a bit confused about how to join the Gold Wall and ended up bailing after the first pitch. To clear up subsequent misadventures:

at the bolt add a nut or small cam to make belay atop Da Black and Gold (P1). traverse far left to the far left side of the gold wall (P2). this will join with the top (or thereabouts) of the first pitch of the Gold Wall. from here, traverse way right under the roofs and climb the epic wandering money pitch of the gold wall (the gold wall's second true pitch).

The gold wall is pretty sweet. Golden bullet hard granite, no loose exfoliating rock to be seen! Aug 15, 2011
  5.11a PG13
  5.11a PG13
Nice Find!! Qualityyy pitch
Climb the railroad track cracks from the ground to the single bolt belay for one long, involved pitch.
Bring along faith and extra small gear.
It's easy to traverse left form the belay(like 5.8)to climb Fool's Gold. Sep 16, 2008

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